Degustazione di 5 annate del Trebbiano d’Abruzzo di Valentini con Massimo Iafrate
Ci sono alcune serate, nel mondo della degustazione dei vini e di altre bevande alcoliche, che le sogni, le rincorri, le brami. Fin dalle prime lezioni con l’Associazione Italiana Sommelier nell’ormai lontano 2016, uno dei primi grandi nomi che continuavo a sentire era quello di Valentini, storica azienda nei pressi di Pescara, precisamente a Loreto Aprutino.
Come spiegato durante la serata, la famiglia guadagnò i primi ettari di terra e vigneti già a cavallo tra il XIV ed il XV secolo grazie all’avo Giovan Battista. In aggiunta all’eccellenza vitivinicola, l’azienda vanta una produzione di altissima qualità anche per l’olio extravergine d’oliva e per il grano duro. Ma è appunto con il nettare di Bacco che la cantina si è consolidata come uno dei principali nomi del panorama vinicolo italiano – oserei dire mondiale. Pochi prodotti ma tutti di estrema qualità: il rosso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, il rosato Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo e soprattutto il Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, considerato all’unanimità uno dei migliori vini bianchi italiani.
Per questo i miei occhi si illuminarono come due lampioni quando lessi su Facebook un post di Massimo Iafrate, relatore straordinario dell’AIS con un’esperienza di 30 anni sulle spalle, in cui annunciava che a fine novembre avrebbe condotto una degustazione che avrebbe avuto come protagonista ben 5 annate di questa delizia abruzzese. Non ero ancora mai riuscito ad assaggiarlo ed ora avevo l’occasione di provare e analizzare nel dettaglio ben 5 annate diverse con un docente più abruzzese dello stesso Gran Sasso: quale occasione migliore?
Pertanto mi affrettai a coordinarmi con il co-organizzatore della serata, ovvero Gianni Rinaldi, delegato dell’AIS Valle dell’Aniene, il quale ha optato per la Tenuta di Rocca Bruna (a Tivoli) come location dello spettacolo.
La serata, come è giusto che sia, non è partita subito all’insegna della degustazione. Massimo è stato estremamente dettagliato e chiaro nella spiegazione di elementi propedeutici alla “bevuta” vera e propria, come l’esplicazione dell’importanza del territorio, cenni storici sulla famiglia Valentini (come Edoardo e Francesco Paolo), le caratteristiche e la grande diffusione del vitigno Trebbiano – ed i suoi vari cloni e varietà – nel panorama vinicolo mondiale.
Ad un certo punto della serata, più o meno al termine della parte teorica, Massimo è stato deciso nel sottolineare che non sarebbe stata – come preannunciato in precedenza – una verticale di 5 annate del Trebbiano di Valentini, bensì una “trasversale”. Solitamente, infatti, una verticale prevede la degustazione di uno stesso vino di uno stesso produttore, declinata in annate diverse, partendo dalla più giovane e continuando con le annate più vecchie al fine di analizzare l’evoluzione del vino nel corso degli anni. In questo caso invece, Massimo ha preferito adottare un approccio diverso: invece di bere partendo dalla più giovane per concludere con la meno recente, è stato seguito un ordine diverso e alla cieca. In questo caso quindi non sapevamo a quali annate corrispondessero le bottiglie che ci venivano servite.
Per quanto sia stata una degustazione sublime, ammetto che ho anche avuto una strana sensazione. Mi sono sentito “disorientato”. L’ultima serata del genere avvenne a febbraio del 2020, praticamente poco prima che scoppiasse il bordello con cui tutti noi abbiamo a che fare da due anni a questa parte. Sarà stata la ruggine, sarà stato il fatto che i vini erano di un livello altissimo che solo poche volte avevo toccato, ma più di una volta quasi non riuscivo ad analizzare olfattivamente e gustativamente i vini nei calici. C’è molto da fare quindi, ma il mio consiglio, qualora dovesse accadere anche a voi, è di portarvi un taccuino con voi per appuntarvi tutto quello che state vivendo e ciò che illustrare il relatore, ma cercare di godere di ogni singola goccia bevuta e di ogni emozione provata.
Detto ciò, passiamo alle questioni più formali.
PRIMA BOTTIGLIA – ANNATA 2016
Giallo paglierino con sfumature dorate: l’impatto visivo promette bene. Parafrasando le sagge parole di Massimo, il vino al naso si presenta “introverso”: un tipo da poche parole, ma ci tiene a condividerle con i partecipanti, mostrando la sua eleganza, la sua coerenza (tra il gusto e l’olfatto) ma soprattutto la sua persistenza. Per essere un vino bianco di 4 anni, naturale e prodotto con un vitigno così umile come il Trebbiano abruzzese, parliamo di un prodotto già estremamente complesso, corredato da sentori di glutammato, erbe aromatiche e sentori balsamici, rinfrescanti e fragranti. Al palato si è dimostrato intenso e con una piacevolissima freschezza.
Francesco Paolo, tramite le parole di Massimo, ha descritto l’annata piovosa (790 mm di pioggia) ma buona ciononostante, con le precipitazioni diffuse in particolare tra aprile ed agosto, concentrate anche nel periodo di vendemmia. Durante l’inverno invece l’acqua non è stata abbondante, aggiungendo che la vegetazione è risultata a dir poco “fuori controllo”. Nel complesso, un’annata molto soddisfacente per il produttore – il che è tutto dire.
SECONDA BOTTIGLIA – ANNATA 2014
Questa è forse l’annata che mi ha spiazzato maggiormente, in cui mi è risultato davvero difficile capire a livello olfattivo e gustativo il prodotto. Conoscendo le mie difficoltà nell’analisi organolettica, quando non riesco ad identificare molti sentori è probabilmente dovuto al fatto che molti siano di origine floreale – ahimè, in quel campo, sono davvero ignorante. Ciò che ho apprezzato maggiormente è stata la maggiore sapidità riscontrata in questo vino rispetto a quello precedente. Il relatore ha correttamente sottolineato come questa caratterizzazione salina abbia quasi allunga l’acidità del vino, aumentando di fatto la salivazione (ma in un modo piacevole).
A detta del produttore, è stata un’annata anche essa piovosa, caratterizzata da un inverno pieno di piogge, portando quindi a delle importanti riserve idriche che si sono rivelate vitali dato che l’estate ha vissuto acqua ad intermittenza, non raggiungendo mai lo stress idrico (834 mm in totale). Il periodo della vendemmia invece si è rivelato asciutto, ma non è stato abbastanza per far cambiare idee a Francesco Paolo: è stata un’annata che proprio non gli è piaciuta!
TERZA BOTTIGLIA – ANNATA 2017
Considerando che si tratta dell’annata più giovane assaggiata in questa serata, questo è il vino che mi ha sorpreso maggiormente. Oltre al giallo dorato brillante presentato nel calice, il vino ha espresso sentori seducenti di crosta di pane, di spezie, di salvia ed una trama balsamica stupefacente; per non parlare della fragranza!
Annata siccitosa, caratterizzata da un inverno sia piovoso che innevato, seguito invece da un’estate abbastanza asciutta con piogge rare ed intermittenti. Tali situazioni, soprattutto per i vini bianchi, portano ad una vendemmia precoce, che può variare dai 14 ai 21 giorni; un periodo significativo per dei vini bianchi secchi. Il periodo di vendemmia, invece, si è rivelato asciutto. “Comincia a piacermi” è ciò che esprime il produttore, ma se non è un problema per lui, a me è piaciuta fin dal primo istante!
QUARTA BOTTIGLIA – ANNATA 2015
Wow. Davvero wow. Al naso qui abbiamo toccato livelli straordinari: burro, crema pasticcera, boulangerie, piccola pasticceria, ma anche un richiamo minerale che definirei “gratificante”. Durante la sua evoluzione nel corso della serata, sono apparsi anche due sentori molto particolari in successione tra di loro: dapprima camomilla e poi qualcosa che richiamava le verdure bollite. Nella prima parte dell’analisi olfattiva, fosse stato un vino gustato alla cieca, avrei optato per un vino dolce molto giovane. Davvero stupefacente e decisamente la mia annata preferita tra le 5! Al palato si è dimostrato complesso, elegante, sofisticato, corredato da una fantastica freschezza a dispetto della rotondità del vino, la quale poteva passare quasi inosservata data la grande salivazione scatenata dal vino.
Secondo Francesco Paolo, l’annata in questione è stata siccitosa (con precipitazioni di 300/350 mm) ma ha visto una precipitazione “azzeccata” nel periodo tra aprile ed agosto. Fantastica la sua definizione: “Il figlio dal quale ti aspetti sempre grandi cose e che sai che non tradisce”.
QUINTA BOTTIGLIA – ANNATA 2009
E vabbè, qui c’è poco da dire… o forse troppo, non lo so neanche. L’annata più vecchia tra le 5 in degustazione e sicuramente la più interessante: vigoroso, potente, fermo nella sua eleganza, ma anche armonico e dall’infinita persistenza. Giallo dorato nel calice, intenso nei sentori, alquanto complessi che sono risultati difficile – per me – da identificare – ma alcuni erano così marcati che era difficile non coglierli, come la sensazione di salamoia e quella caratterizzazione di “antico” che si trova in alcuni ambienti. Chiedo venia per la pessima descrizione ma in questo caso ero davvero impegnato a gustare il vino senza pensare troppo all’analisi organolettica.
Non si è rivelata, tuttavia, un’annata molto soddisfacente per i canoni di Francesco Paolo, ma tant’è: noi ce la prendiamo così com’è molto volentieri!
Per la par condicio, a fine degustazione, la delegazione è stata clemente nel portare uno stuzzichino per riempire un minimo lo stomaco, con uno spezzatino di agnello e patate – molto gradito.
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