Guida completa sugli Icewine, i vini di ghiaccio
Ha molti nomi, riferiti per lo più alle zone di produzione, come Eiswein, Icewine, Vin de glace, Jégbor, Ľadové Víno, ma alla fine si parla sempre dello stesso prodotto, ovvero il “vino del ghiaccio“.
Tra le tante tipologie di vini dolci che si possono realizzare, questa (insieme ai vini muffati/botritizzati) è a mio parere la più particolare ed intrigante.
Perché si chiamano così? Semplice: perché sono vini prodotti partendo da uve ghiacciate – in modo naturale. Il principio di base è quello di far congelare l’acqua all’interno degli acini, una tecnica nota già agli antichi Romani.
METODO DI PRODUZIONE
L’uva viene vendemmiata (dopo essere stata fatta appassire sulla pianta), rigorosamente a mano, nel periodo che va da fine anno all’inizio di quello nuovo, più o meno da metà dicembre a fine gennaio. L’uva ovviamente deve trovarsi congelata, ad una temperatura che si aggira intorno a -8° C e la raccolta avviene poco prima dell’alba; va specificato che l’acqua congelata non viene estratta, al fine di ottenere un mosto estremamente concentrato, ricco di zuccheri e di acidi.
Infatti l’acqua, congelando a zero gradi, si solidifica, ma gli acidi, gli zuccheri e le altre sostanze polifenoliche, congelandosi a temperature più basse, restano in forma liquida. Alla vendemmia deve seguire un’immediata pressatura per evitare innalzamenti di temperatura, e questo ha portato molte cantine ad installare le presse all’aperto vicine ai vigneti. La velocità è tutto in questa fase e la vendemmia deve essere svolta velocemente, durante la notte fino al primo mattino – prima che sorga il sole, per ovvi motivi. Il trasporto deve essere breve e anche i locali in cui avviene la pigiatura devono avere una temperatura bassa in modo da non far scongelare i grappoli (lo shock termico, in questo caso, potrebbe essere letale). Le presse per la pigiatura sono pronte a effettuare una pressatura diretta del grappolo.
Il mosto che si ricava è un succo straordinariamente concentrato ricco di zucchero (che può andare dai 180 ai 320 grammi di zucchero per litro) e di acidi ma con uno scarso contenuto d’acqua. Questa caratteristica renderà la fermentazione molto lenta, capace di andare avanti anche per diversi mesi. La vinificazione è solitamente svolta in vasche o contenitori d’acciaio, per preservare al massimo i sentori puri e pieni della frutta mentre è più raro che avvenga in grandi botti vecchie. Le rese sono considerevolmente minime, basti pensare che per ottenere una bottiglia da 375 cl (la mezza bottiglia quindi) servono dai 3 ai 4 chili di uva!
La domanda sorge spontanea: “non è più semplice congelare le uve in freezer?”. La risposta è no, anche perché la legge lo vieta, al fine di garantire l’alta qualità del prodotto e preservare l’integrità dei vini di ghiaccio, solo il vino ottenuto da uve che sono state naturalmente congelate ancora appese alla vite può essere etichettato come Eiswein, mentre il vino ottenuto dalla crioestrazione (ovvero il congelamento artificiale dei grappoli, vietata in Canada, Austria e Germania) non può essere legalmente etichettato come tale.
Come nasce questa tipologia così particolare di vini? Pare casualmente, o quantomeno perché Madre Natura decise di tirar giù un’inattesa gelata che colse di sorpresa i viticoltori. Sarebbe proprio quel che accadde nel 1794 in Franconia, precisamente nella città di Würzburg, quando tale gelata causò il congelamento delle uve. I viticoltori però, piuttosto che disperarsi e buttare tutto, provarono comunque a pigiare le uve e ne ricavarono un mosto estremamente zuccherino e concentrato. La produzione di questi vini, tuttavia, rimase abbastanza arbitraria o quantomeno rara dato che in quasi un secolo, dal 1875 al 1962, vennero prodotti solo per dieci annate.
Un nome che sicuramente si attribuisce sempre al successo degli Eiswein (chiamati così in particolare in Germania ed in Austria) è il dott. Hans Georg Ambrosi, il “padre dell’Eiswein”, che diede inizio ad alcune sperimentazioni già nel 1955 mentre si trovava in Sud Africa. Al ritorno in Germania dalla nazione arcobaleno, fondò una cantina per produrre il vino di ghiaccio, un’azione che poi venne emulata da altri produttori, facendolo diventare un prodotto tipico del suo Paese, anche se le condizioni climatiche non ne garantiscano una produzione costante ogni anno. In seguito furono poi altre nazioni ad adottare la tecnica, in primis il Canada ma anche la Slovenia, l’Ungheria e l’Italia.
Tornando alla nazione nordamericana, fu nel 1973 che il Canada, per opera di Walter Hainle (cittadino di origini tedesche) entrò nell’Olimpo dei produttori dei vini di ghiaccio, dando vita al primo Icewine canadese. In poco tempo, grazie alle sue condizioni climatiche (il freddo in Canada è tutta un’altra cosa!), la nazione divenne leader mondiale nella produzione di Icewine, in quanto, contrariamente alle nazioni europee, le temperature invernali permettono di produrlo ogni anno. In questa nazione gli Icewine si trovano principalmente nella British Columbia, in Nova Scotia, nel Québec e nella Penisola del Niagara, in Ontario, dove si produce il Vidal (uva ibrida a bacca bianca di origine francese, incrocio tra Ugni Blanc – il nostro trebbiano – e Rayon d’Or).
Ad oggi ho provato la versione canadese una sola volta, ovviamente un Vidal 100%, prodotto dalla cantina “Pillitteri” (vendemmia 2015), una delle più famose aziende vitivinicole della nazione.
Questo Vidal Reserve nasce dalle viti più vecchie e meglio posizionate all’interno dei vigneti di Pillitteri. Infatti solo gli acini migliori vengono selezionati dalla cantina durante la vendemmia, anche a seguito di accurate analisi che verificano che zuccheri, alcool e acidità siano ai giusti livelli per soddisfare gli standard qualitativi. Una volta portati nei locali adibiti alla vinificazione, gli acini fermentano sia in acciaio che in legno, al fine di aumentare la complessità e la profondità del sorso finale.
La cantina si trova nello stato dell’Ontario e qui una nuova generazione di produttori sta dando origine a prodotti di qualità, riconosciuti attraverso un sistema di denominazione che risponde al nome di “Vintners Quality Alliance”, la cui sigla, che si ritrova anche sulle bottiglie, è “VQA”. Tra le diverse realtà produttive spicca, per l’appunto, Pillitteri, azienda famigliare di origini italiane, quando nel 1948 la famiglia decise di partire dalla Sicilia alla volta del Canada, stabilendosi a Niagara e iniziando un’attività agricola di coltivazione di ortaggi e frutta e debuttando nel mondo del vino nel 1993 quando piantarono le prime viti.
Oggi Pillitteri è una realtà che può contare su 40 ettari vitati, dove si allevano diverse varietà a bacca bianca e rossa, tra le quali spiccano Vidal, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon e Cabernet Franc, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Nero. Le viti affondano le proprie radici in un terreno composto prevalentemente da sabbia e roccia, caratterizzato da un clima continentale-marittimo, che risente della vicinanza con il Lake Ontario.
Se dovessi descrivere il vino con una sola parola userei “Litchi”, un sentore che spicca nel bouquet aromatico del vino, che si presenta con un colore dorato carico, ricco di note di pera e fiori gialli, dalla spiccata intensità gustativa, con una lunga persistenza ed una dolcezza leggermente sproporzionata rispetto all’acidità.
ICEWINE IN ITALIA
PIEMONTE
In Italia la tecnica dell’Icewine è poco diffusa, un po’ per cultura, un po’ per le temperature. Sicuramente però il più famoso che il Belpaese può annoverare (ed il primo vino di ghiaccio nostrano che assaggiai) è quello prodotto dalla cantina “Casa Ronsil”, in Val di Susa (Piemonte).
Per descriverlo al meglio, riporto qui sotto le parole della stessa cantina per descrivere il suo “Ice One Rosso”:
Il vino del ghiaccio è il figlio dell’inverno, un prodotto raro di eccellenza nato in condizioni estreme che soltanto il lavoro accanito e la passione dell’uomo possono creare sotto l’auspicio della Natura. Questo vino non era sconosciuto ai Romani della cui vendemmia dai grappoli ricoperti di ghiaccio riporta anche Marco Valerio Marziale poeta Latino (40 – 103 d.C ) ben lo sanno in Germania dove gli esperti alla fine del ’700 hanno ripreso quel tipo di vinificazione.Le aere tradizionali di produzione dello Ice wine sono: il Canada, l’ Austria, l’ Alsazia ( Francia ) , la Svizzera e la Slovenia, il Piemonte si è (allegato) unito ai suddetti più recentemente.
A seconda del disciplinare degli Ice wine internazionali, la vendemmia avviene intorno ai -5° di notte, al solito, o prestissimo la mattina prima che esca il sole che danneggerebbe la raccolta. Sia al momento della vendemmia, che della pigiatura le uve devono essere gelate. Le uve utilizzate devono provenire della stessa regione, non possono essere congelate artificialmente e non è permessa alcuna aggiunta di additivi al vino né all’uva .I grappoli durante l’inverno diventano la preda degli animali , ogni giorno bisogna andare a controllare nelle vigne le reti di protezione che vengono messe in autunno e dobbiamo cacciare gli uccelli che riescono, spinti dalla fame, ad introdurvisi.La produzione è di meno di 500 bottiglie di 37,5 cl una scarsa quantità ottenuta in condizioni estreme che ne fanno un prodotto di nicchia oneroso ma prezioso.
Nel 2006, CASA RONSIL si aggiunse al progetto “Ice wine” a Chiomonte sostenuto della CMAVS (comunità montana alta Valle Susa) e dal comune di Chiomonte nella sperimentazione della produzione di “Ice wine” tra le vigne più alte d’ Europa, rispettando il disciplinare internazionale degli “Ice wine” di creare il primo vino unico a bacca rossa (Essendo gli “Ice wine” tradizionalmente realizzati con le uve bianche).
Zona di produzione: Valle di Susa – Chiomonte (TO)
Altitudine: 700 mt
Vigneto: La Vaute (77 anni)
Vitigni Autoctoni: Avanà, Becuet, Chatus
Anno di produzione : 2020
Bottiglie da: 0,375 cl
Grado alcolico: 15% Vol.
Colore: cerasuolo intenso
Profumo: bacche selvatiche , tamarindo e rabarbaro
Sapore: soave dolcezza stemperata da un’acidità incisiva
Abbinamenti: magico anche per l ‘aperitivo, Paté délicato (Foie Gras) , formaggi tipici e gorgonzola o al momento del ”dessert”
Temp.Degustazione: 6°/ 8°
Bicchieri: a liquore, piccoli a piede ed esclusivamente di cristallo.
Num. di bottiglie prodotte: inferiore a 500
Un prodotto davvero eccellente!
EMILIA ROMAGNA
C’è poi un altro famoso vino di ghiaccio italiano, ma questa volta dobbiamo scendere molto più giù, in Emilia, dove la Tenuta Vitivinicola Croci (a Castell’Arquato, in provincia di Piacenza) produce il vino ghiacciato “Emozioni di Ghiaccio“:
“Questo Vino è ottenuto da uve lasciate appassire naturalmente sulla vite. Uve raccolte con un’accuratissima selezione tra fine novembre e fine gennaio nel primissimo mattino quando la temperatura scende sotto i -5°C. Per estrarne il denso succo gli acini vengono pigiati con torchio verticale. La resa è di 5 hl per ettaro circa. La fermentazione avviene molto lentamente, si attiva naturalmente e può durare più di un anno. L’impatto al naso è ricco, concentrato e complesso con profumi che ricordano i canditi, in bocca è molto avvolgente denota una piacevole grassezza, di buon dolce, poco fresca di acidi. Servire a 13-15°C.
Tipologia:
Vino Bianco
Vendemmia:
Tra Novembre e Gennaio Metodo “Vino di Ghiaccio”
Uvaggio:
Malvasia di Candia 70% Moscato 30%
Allevamento:
Guyot
Terreno:
Argilloso-sabbioso di origine pliocenica
Ubicazione dei vigneti:
Loc Monterosso – Castell’Arquato a 260 metri s.l.m.
Vinificazione:
Pigiatura con Torchio Verticale Lenta fermentazione di 18/24 mesi
Affinamento:
In vasca 12/36 mesi dopo la fermentazione
in Bottiglia minimo 6 mesi
VAL D’AOSTA
Tornando invece più su, in Val d’Aosta, troviamo un vero e proprio Vin de Glace, ovvero il “Chaudelune” di Cave Mont Blanc.
Di seguito ecco la descrizione riportata dal sito della cantina:
DENOMINAZIONE
Vallée d’Aoste D.O.C.
Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle
Vendemmia Tardiva, Vin de Glace.
VITIGNO E VINIFICAZIONE
100% Prié Blanc.
Vendemmiato nei mesi invernali in notturna a temperature molto rigide che permettono una raccolta dell’acino gelato.
La pressatura avviene alle prime luci dell’alba.
Affinamento di 12 mesi in botti di diverse carature ed essenze.
CARATTERISTICHE
. VISIVA – colore giallo dorato.
. OLFATTIVA – intenso, complesso, speziato, frutta disidratata, fichi e miele.
. GUSTATIVA – persistente, miele, frutta candita, di buona freschezza finale.
. GRADO ALCOLICO – da 13 % vol.
. SERVIZIO – servire a 15° C.
. CONSERVAZIONE – conservare in luogo fresco evitando lunghe esposizioni alla luce.
. ABBINAMENTO – Bleu d’Aoste, formaggi erborinati, pasticceria secca, torrone.
NOTE AROMATICHE
Canditi
Menta
Albicocca essicata
Glicine
Fico bianco
Dattero
Timo
Miele
CARATTERISTICHE DEGLI ICEWINE
- Appassimento delle uve sulla pianta,
- vendemmia tardiva tra fine dicembre ed inizio febbraio massimo
- temperatura a cui viene raccolta l’uva tra -7° e -14°
- raccolta (rapida) a mano di notte o alle prime luci dell’alba
- uva pigiata con pressatura soffice
- fermentazione lenta
- vinificazione in acciaio o legno
- resa bassissima
- produzione limitata e non garantita ogni anno
VITIGNI PIÙ IDONEI
- Riesling Renano
- Vidal
- Gewürztraminer
- Pinot Bianco
- Scheurebe
- Kerner
- Pinot Nero
- Blaufränkisch
- Altre varie (Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Seyval Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah).
ZONE IN GERMANIA PIÙ IDONEE
- Mosel,
- Rheinhessen,
- Pfalz
- Rheingau
ZONE IN ITALIA PIÙ IDONEE
- Valle d’Aosta (Vin de Glace)
- Trentino Alto Adige
- Piemonte
- Emilia Romagna
Es uno de los blogs más importantes que he leído. Gracias por compartirlo.
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“Revolutionize Your Workspace with Freedman’s Office Chairs
in Atlanta
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residents unparalleled comfort and style, making them the
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**A Commitment to Excellence: Choosing Freedman’s Chairs in Atlanta**
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– **The Fox Theatre:** A historic performing arts venue known for its grand architecture and
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– **The High Museum of Art:** Atlanta’s leading art museum, showcasing a diverse collection of artwork.
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