Dalla A alla Z – Il glossario della carne

Posso confidarvi una cosa molto personale? Non sono un gran carnivoro

Anzi, ci sono molte pietanze a base di carne per le quali potrei fare a meno per tutto il resto della mia vita senza problemi. Ma sta di fatto che la carne rappresenta una risorsa fondamentale per l’alimentazione dell’essere umano, oggetto di controversie incredibili soprattutto negli schieramenti degli onnivori ed i vegani/vegetariani, ma anche obiettivamente una risorsa finita, nel senso che la carne (qualunque sia l’animale in questione) non si produce ogni secondo per miracolo, e spesso e volentieri c’è un grosso consumo di risorse per la produzione di carne commestibile che riporta importanti conseguenze anche sull’ambiente.

Ma ripeto: la carne è parte fondamentale della nostra alimentazione. In regioni italiane specifiche è un credo, una vocazione, una fonte di gioia, come la Fiorentina, la Chianina ed il Lampredotto per i toscani, il porceddu per i sardi, gli arrosticini di pecora in Abruzzo, la Fassona in Piemonte e così via.

Per questo ho deciso di scrivere un articolo che contenesse un glossario della carne: OGNI lettera dell’alfabeto (e vi assicuro che per alcune è stata davvero tosta) corrispondente ad una voce del gergo tecnico della carne.

Attenzione: ho inserito una singola voce per lettera, quindi è ovvio che abbia lasciato moltissimi termini al di fuori di questo articolo. Solo con la “P” avrei potuto scrivere “polpette“, “prosciutto“, “pancetta” ed altro ancora. Ma questo glossario non pretende di essere un diktat da seguire senza obiezioni, una specie di testo sacro della proteina più consumata al mondo (occidentale sicuramente). Questo è il MIO glossario della carne e niente mi vieta di crearne altri in futuro per cercare di coprire tutti i termini più importanti.

Bando alle ciance: il preambolo è durato anche troppo. Diamo il via!

A come AL SANGUE

Ben cotta“, “media” o “al sangue“? Solitamente sono queste le cotture della carne più diffuse nella ristorazione ma sono sicuro di una cosa: i veri amanti della carne, qualunque sia la loro provenienza e la loro inclinazione, chiederanno sempre “al sangue” per poter gustare al massimo delle sue potenzialità la carne. Ovviamente ci sono alcune carni che non possono (anzi, non DEVONO) essere consumate al sangue, in primis il pollo – ma anche il maiale. Ma per il resto delle carni, a seconda della tipologia e della pezzatura, la carne andrebbe cotta ad una temperatura di 50°-52°, circa 2 minuti per lato, la quale diverrà rossa al 75% (internamente) e rosolata (esternamente). È anche vero che con le temperature delle varie cotture ci sono molte versioni e molte “scuole di pensiero”, ma se mi sono sbagliato chiedo venia ed anzi: invito a ricevere consigli su quale sia la temperatura corretta per la cottura al sangue.

B come BLACK ANGUS

Forse al giorno d’oggi è diventata una carne “dozzinale”, o quantomeno molto facile da reperire, dato che la globalizzazione l’ha portata praticamente in ogni supermercato e macelleria nel mondo, ma per me la Black Angus resta una carne incredibile. La scoprii per la prima volta durante i miei trascorsi negli Stati Uniti (2007-2010) e nel tempo sono venuto a sapere che deve il suo nome alla cittadina scozzese Aberdeen. La dicitura Black Angus va attribuita al colore nero del suo mantello: un altro tratto caratteristico è l’assenza di corna. La carne solitamente è morbida e delicata, con il suo grasso di marezzatura capace di conferire un’accentuata morbidezza che si rivela molto piacevole al palato. Nonostante le origini scozzesi, è ormai una razza bovina diffusa abbondantemente in vari altri nazioni, come Irlanda, Argentina, Australia, Stati Uniti e anche Italia.

C come CHIANINA

Noi italiani siamo davvero fortunati. Abbiamo una biodiversità che tutto il mondo ci invidia e, tra le nostre eccellenze in ambito “carnivoro”, va annoverata sicuramente la razza Chianina, orgoglio italiano ed in particolare della Toscana. Si tratta di una tipologia di bovino molto antica, al punto che già i Romani lo usavano come animale da usare nelle parate celebrative ma anche in rituali sacrificali verso le divinità. Deve il nome al suo luogo d’origine, ovvero la Val di Chiana, che amministrativamente parlando è compresa tra i Comuni di Siena ed Arezzo in Toscana, ma anche tra le province di Terni e Perugia in Umbria. Se il Black Angus ha un colore molto scuro, la Chianina invece è al contrario, presentando un colore di manto oserei dire bianco porcellana. Grazie anche e soprattutto alla tradizione della Fiorentina, è da sempre considerata una delle migliori carni nostrane – allargherei il discorso a tutto il mondo perché è veramente gustosa!

D come DRY AGED

Forse il termine in sè non dice un granché a molte persone, ma scommetto che se uso la traduzione in italiano le idee saranno più chiare: “frollatura“. Per essere più precisi, il termine “dry-aged” si riferisce alla “frollatura a secco“. Ma andiamo con ordine. La frollatura può essere definita come un procedimento di riposo in cella frigorifera a cui la carne è sottoposta per acquisire maggiore sapore e tenerezza. Per essere ancora più precisi, il procedimento causerà una perdita di peso della carne e ad una colorazione più scura dato che perderà molti liquidi – dando quasi la sensazione di ossidazione in superficie – ma il tutto è voluto per concentrare maggiormente il sapore.

La versione dry-aged della frollatura prevede un riposo in apparecchiature di refrigerazione tra 0° e 1°, con una esposizione ai raggi UV, mantenendo ventilazione ed umidità sotto controllo. A quel punto, in un periodo variabile tra le 5 e le 8 settimane, le carni vengono asciugate superficialmente, perdendo fino al 20% di liquidi. Allo stesso tempo, gli enzimi naturali della carne abbatte il tessuto connettivo nel muscolo. Tradotto: maggiore tenerezza della carne!

E come ENTRECÔTE

L’entrecôte è uno dei tagli di carne bovina più prelibati e apprezzati in tutto il mondo ed è il taglio di carne che si colloca tra le due costole nella lombata del bovino adulto/manzo. Non metto la mano sul fuoco ma, in italiano, dovrebbe essere riferito come “controfiletto“. Parliamo di una costata senza osso che viene ricavata dal quarto posteriore dell’animale. Il fatto poi che si tratti di un muscolo poco usato dall’animale, fa sì che tale taglio risulti particolarmente saporito e tenero.

F come FILETTO

Alla Rossini, al pepe verde, alla Voronoff, alla Wellington e chissà quante altre ricette si potrebbero elencare. Che cosa hanno in comune tutte queste? Il protagonista è il filetto. Si tratta di uno dei tagli più pregiati e magri, tanto tenero quanto costoso, ed è un taglio della parte bassa della schiena dell’animale (ovvero la lombata), appena sopra le cosce.

G come GUANCIALE

Il re del mondo norcino secondo il mio modesto parere. A Roma e dintorni è una vera e propria autorità dato che è uno degli attori protagonisti di tre piatti straordinariamente emblematici come la gricia, la carbonara e l’amatriciana. Il guanciale altri non è che un salume ottenuto dalla guancia del maiale, contenente sia una parte magra – ovvero i muscoli, i quali formano le caratteristiche venature – che soprattutto grassa. Proprio grazie a questa parte grassa – e grande veicolo di sapidità – non c’è alcun bisogno di aggiungere ulteriori grassi animali o vegetali (come olio o burro) in padella, dato che cuocendo correttamente il guanciale verrà rilasciato abbondante grasso che aiuterà a rendere il piatto ancora più saporito.

H come HAMBURGER

Vero che ormai si trovano di ogni genere: di salmone, di pollo, di merluzzo, di verdure, di “finta carne” (tipo “Beyond Burger”), ma per me l’HAMBURGER per eccellenza è quello di manzo. Forse è il più grande motivo per il quale non riuscirò mai a diventare vegetariano… ma tant’è. L’hamburger è considerato un cibo da bambini o comunque da ragazzini. Pensatela come volete ma, seguendo il credo che “è tutto più buono dentro due fette di pane”, io trovo l’hamburger un’opera d’arte. Può avere mille varianti a seconda del pane, delle salse, delle verdure, dei formaggi e dei condimenti al suo interno. Non è un piatto che troveremo in un ristorante stellato, sia chiaro, ma ogni tanto un buon e genuino hamburger è ciò che mi fa maggiormente impazzire a questo mondo!

I come INSACCATI

Ho quasi paura a trattare l’argomento perché il mondo dei salumi è abbastanza lontano dai miei gusti preferiti – sebbene ci siano molti prodotti di questo genere che consumo e gradisco molto. Ma dopo molta ricerca, dovrei aver trovato il bandolo della matassa. Gli insaccati sono salumi composti da carne (suina ma non solo) trita o mista alle quali spesso viene aggiunta sale e/o spezie. Tali carni vengono dapprima pulite e disossate, per poi essere preparate per la macinatura. In seguito si avvia la fase di concia, durante la quale verranno aggiunte spezie e sale (anche nitrati, nitriti e polifosfati in molti casi). Infine si inseriscono in “rivestimenti” naturali – spesso e volentieri il budello dell’animale utilizzato. C’è anche una seconda via, ovvero l’uso di rivestimenti artificiali, fatti di collagene o poliammide. Per far uscire poi la parte liquida della lavorazione, si applicano dei piccoli fori sul budello, si lega il tutto con uno spago e si lascia ad asciugare tra le 30 e le 50 ore. Infine si passa alla stagionatura, anche essa variabile a seconda del prodotto. Quale esempio di insaccato? Salame, mortadella, salsiccia, cotechino, salamella, capocollo, coppa, soppressata, würstel e zampone.

J come JAMÓN

Ammetto che la “J” sia una di quelle lettere che mi ha messo maggiormente in difficoltà, ma poi mi è venuto in mente qualcosa che invece dovrebbe risaltare subito: J come “jamón“, il famosissimo prosciutto spagnolo. Probabilmente due delle tipologie più apprezzate e conosciute sono quello “ibérico” e quello “serrano“. Il primo è realizzato con suino iberico, mentre il secondo si fa con diverse razze (con una colorazione più chiara) come Large White, Pietrain, Duroc e Landrace. Un’altra grande differenza risiede nella stagionatura. Se quello ibérico prevede un minimo di 14 mesi ed un massimo di 48, quello serrano va dai 7 mesi fino ad un massimo di 16 mesi. Se ci si chiede quale sia il più pregiato, è probabile che basandosi sulla stagionatura sia quello “ibérico” a trionfare. Anzi, per essere ancora più precisi, la tipologia “Jamón Ibérico de Bellota“, conosciuta anche come “Pata Negra“, può essere considerata la più pregiata e ricercata.

K come KOBE

Credo che sia doveroso debuttare con questa precisazione: tutta la carne Kobe è Wagyu (vedi voce successiva alla W) ma non tutta la Wagyu è Kobe. Questo perché “Wagyu”, come vedremo tra poco, è un insieme mentre la Kobe è un sottoinsieme. Infatti la Wagyu di Kobe è una selezione di manzi della razza Tajima, un manzo nipponico dal manto nero e originaria della zona di Tajima, nella provincia di Kobe che a sua volta si trova nella regione di Hyogo, nel sud della nazione.

Andando ad approfondire maggiormente sul sito di Wagyu Company, uno dei principali importatori di carne Wagyu in Italia, ho trovato i requisiti che permettono alla Tajima per diventare manzo di Kobe, ovvero:

  • l’animale deve essere di razza Tajima e nato nella prefettura di Hyogo;
  • essere allevato nella prefettura di Hyogo da un allevatore facente parte dell’Associazione ufficiale del manzo Kobe;
  •  deve essere o una vacca che non ha mai partorito o un giovenco o manzo castrato;
  • deve essere macellato nei macelli di Kobe, Nishinomiya, Sanda, Kakogawa o Himeji, sempre nella prefettura di Hyogo;
  • la qualità della carne deve avere un punteggio di 4 o 5 e di classe A o B (anche qui, leggere la voce W più in basso nell’articolo);
  • il peso della carcassa (quindi dopo aver rimosso ossa, organi e pelle) deve essere tra i 260 e i 470 kg per i maschi e tra 230 e 470 kg per le femmine;
  • il BMS deve essere di livello 6 o superiore.

L come LARDO

Anche nel settore del lardo, noi italiani possiamo vantare un’eccellenza mondiale, ovvero il Lardo di Colonnata IGP. ll Lardo di Colonnata IGP è un salume ricavato dal grasso del dorso di suini selezionati, salato e fatto maturare all’interno di conche di marmo, un materiale che a Carrara, patria di questo prodotto squisito, trova il suo epicentro mondiale di qualità. Non da meno anche il Vallée d’Aoste Lard d’Arnad DOP, prodotto straordinario della salumeria valdostana, ottenuto dalla lavorazione artigianale dello spallotto di maiali. Ma tornando al lardo in generale, parliamo di un alimento che nasce della salagione, aromatizzazione ed infine stagionatura del grasso sottocutaneo del maiale proveniente dal collo, dal dorso e dai fianchi. Si tratta di un salume ricco di grassi saturi e di colesterolo, pertanto bisogna andarci piano con il suo consumo, ma una tantum è doveroso gustare una tale prelibatezza.

M come MAREZZATURA

Con “marezzatura” si intende “l’infiltrazione e distribuzione di grasso all’interno del tessuto muscolare animale. Sono quelle piccole venature e chiazze di grasso bianco che si vedono (da crude), ad esempio tra le fibre rosse della carne nelle bistecche di più alta qualità”. Questa è la definizione fornita dall’Accademia Macelleria Italiana. Pertanto, maggiore il tessuto di grasso, maggiore la qualità.

N come NOCE

Conosciuto anche come “scannello“, “culatta” ed in altri modi in giro per l’Italia, questo taglio si trova nella parte posteriore del bovino, adiacente al fianchetto, la sottofesa, la fesa e lo scamone. Se volessimo fare un’analogia con l’anatomia umana, dovrebbe essere il quadricipite dell’animale, composto dal retto craniale della coscia, il vasto intermedio, il vasto laterale e il vasto mediale. Data l’alta concentrazione di muscoli, il noce è molto magro ed è probabilmente parliamo di uno dei tagli più teneri e pregiati, forse il migliore del posteriore.

O come OSSOBUCO

Sono certo che con questa voce mi aggrazierò le simpatie dei lettori milanesi. Che cos’è l’ossobuco? Si tratta del garretto (o muscolo posteriore o anche anteriore), ovvero un taglio di carne bovina spesso circa 4 cm, ricavato dallo stinco degli arti posteriori del bovino. I pezzi più pregiati sono quelli che vengono tagliati alla metà del muscolo posteriore o anteriore, dove l’osso ha una ricca dotazione di midollo. A Milano lOss Buss è una cosa seria, al punto che il Comune gli ha conferito la Denominazione Comunale (con delibera della Giunta Comunale del 14-12-2007) per associarlo in modo perenne alla sua tradizione e alla sua cucina. Ma in generale è apprezzato in tutta la Lombardia, come a Pavia dove tradizionalmente viene consumato con i piselli.

P come PICANHA

La “P” è probabilmente la lettera più controversa in questo glossario, dato che ho dovuto lasciar fuori moltissimi termini molto più comuni della cucina italiana. Tuttavia, ho deciso di dedicarla alla picanha, un taglio tipico della cucina brasiliana – e più in generale di quella sudamericana. Si tratta di un taglio bovino triangolare ricavato dalla punta di sottofesa o punta di codone, molto versatile nella preparazione e nel condimento. Probabilmente la versione più famosa e conosciuta è quella del churrasco brasiliano, in cui il codone si taglia a fette, si salano e poi si infilano in uno spadone in modo che prendano una forma a “C”.

Q come QUINTO QUARTO

E qui si apre un mondo. Sì perché un tempo il quinto quarto – le frattaglie, in poche parole, chiamato così perché costituiscono quel che non rientra nei quattro tagli principali (ovvero anteriori e posteriori) dell’animale – rappresentava gli scarti degli animali che le persone altolocate non si sognavano neanche di toccare, pertanto i macellai li vendevano ad un prezzo irrisorio. Parliamo comunque di carne, quindi per le famiglie più umili erano un’occasione ghiotta per acquistare, in tempi molto più duri di quelli odierni, carne da usare per sfamare la propria famiglia.

Avete mai sentito la frase “Giovedì gnocchi, venerdì baccalà e sabato… trippa“? Soprattutto a Roma è una frase comune, ma non tutti conoscono il vero significato che si cela dietro.⁣ Uno dei motivi principali della nascita di questa tradizione va ricercata nel Dopoguerra, quando le risorse non erano proprio abbondanti come oggi e in cui era necessario sia ingegno che rigore per razionare il cibo. ⁣Il perché del baccalà il venerdì va attribuito a motivi religiosi; infatti secondo la Chiesa cattolica, il venerdì è il “giorno magro” e prevede un consumo di piatti che non siano a base di carne – nella maggior parte dei casi pesce e legumi, portando spesso al consumo di baccalà con i ceci il venerdì.

⁣Il giorno prima ed il giorno dopo invece venivano preparate delle pietanze maggiormente corpose e, tradizionalmente, il giovedì erano previsti gnocchi di patate al sugo, mentre il sabato si andava di trippa. La verità è che tempo fa la trippa era un alimento consumato principalmente da chi era meno abbiente. Il sabato i macellai si occupavano della macellazione delle carni per accontentare chi poteva permettersi un lauto pranzo domenicale, lasciando quel giorno ai contadini i tagli meno pregiati, come la trippa appunto.⁣ Oggi le cose sono cambiate: le frattaglie vengono usate molto dalle osterie per proporre i piatti della tradizione, ma anche l’alta ristorazione continua a proporre sempre più le frattaglie, trasponendole all’alta cucina tramite accostamenti particolari. E così, via di trippa, polmoni, rognone, animelle, fegato, milza, testicoli, coda, cervello e così via.

R come REVERSE SEARING

Come detto, non sono pratico di carne, ma anche io so che solitamente (nei ristoranti) la si cuoce a temperature elevate per poi ultimare la cottura – ad una temperatura più moderata – in forno, col fine anche di farla riposare per non farle perdere succhi nel piatto. Bene, il reverse searing è praticamente il procedimento inverso, in cui si svolge una prima cottura ad una temperatura molto bassa (a 52°C, praticamente quella per far avere lo stadio “al sangue”) per almeno due ore, ma solo ed esclusivamente dopo aver asciugato perfettamente la carne, senza lasciare la minima traccia di umidità. In seguito si procede a grigliare la parte esterna su una superficie con una temperatura ben più alta, in modo da caramellizzare perfettamente gli zuccheri della carne. Si potrebbe tradurre con “grigliatura al contrario” ma ammettiamolo: in inglese suona molto meglio. Sicuramente la procedura che ho descritto non è completa al 100% ma, cari amici ultra-carnivori, non prendetevela troppo: la mancanza di esperienza pratica non mi aiuta di certo.

S come SCOTTONA

Qui a volte c’è un po’ di confusione. La scottona in realtà non è un taglio di carne né una razza animale. Bensì è il termine tecnico utilizzato per indicare la femmina del bovino di età compresa tra i 15 e i 22 mesi (se sono ben informato) che non ha mai partorito e che è destinata alla macellazione. Da qui la distinzione con “manza” o “giovenca”, termini usati per definire la giovane femmina di bovino.

T come TOMAHAWK

Tra il nome e soprattutto la forma, a mio modesto parere il Tomahawk è il pezzo di carne più scenografico in assoluto. Si tratta di una costata di manzo ricavata dalla parte anteriore della lombata di manzo, la cui forma richiama molto il tomahawk, ovvero l’accetta tipica dei nativi americani – da cui prende il nome. La sua caratteristica principale è l’osso da circa 30cm che viene lasciato attaccato alla carne, la quale viene rigorosamente cotta alla brace per esaltarne le caratteristiche. Solitamente prevede un’altezza minima di 5 cm, con il peso variabile tra gli 800 g ed i 1.800 g. Pare questo taglio sia nato in Australia da un incrocio tra la razza Black Angus e la Wagyu, quindi immaginatevi che mix… Come potete intuire, si tratta di un taglio di carne molto costoso, quindi immaginatevi quanto può costare se, in ristoranti come quello di Salt Bae, viene servita ricoperta d’oro commestibile!

U come UCCELLETTO

Il “vitellone all’uccelletto” è un secondo piatto tipico della cucina ligure a base di vitello, olio EVO, burro, sale e pepe, aglio, alloro e vino bianco. Probabilmente, per gli abitanti di Roma e dintorni, può essere definita come una “cugina” degli straccetti romani.

V come VEGANA

Associare la carne alla parola “vegana” farà sicuramente storcere il naso a molti lettori, dato il paradosso. Sebbene possa esistere un universo parallelo in cui io riesca a diventare vegetariano, in nessuna realtà parallela riuscirò mai a diventare vegano, dato che ciò comporterebbe rinunciare ad alimenti che amo, come latte, uova, burro e formaggi. Tuttavia bisogna riconoscere che la carne non è infinita e tanti altri fatti che non starò ad elencare qui. Un’alternativa vegana sta emergendo sempre più negli ultimi anni e sono diverse le aziende e/o associazioni che si stanno impegnando per portare sul mercato prodotti di qualità a prezzi accessibili che richiamino il colore, l’aspetto e le sembianze della carne ma che siano in realtà di origine vegetale. Il primo nome che mi viene in mente è “Beyond Meat“, che ormai è diffusa anche in Italia e produce ad esempio hamburger vegani a base di proteine vegetali. Ci assomigliano? Sì. Hanno un odore simile? Assolutamente no. Hanno un sapore simile. Mhm… Mi limito a dire che è sicuramente un’alternativa interessante da considerare e provare prima di giudicare.

Altro nome da segnalare è “Novameat“, startup spagnola che si sta impegnando ad immettere sul mercato una bistecca vegetale stampata in 3D. Piccola curiosità: uno dei principali protagonisti di questo progetto è italiano (Giuseppe Scionti) e lo conobbi diversi anni fa quando grazie al programma Erasmus mi trasferii per 6 mesi in Svezia (a Göteborg) e lui organizzava qualche festa in discoteca: a me questa cosa fa volare! E sono contentissimo che anche in questo ambito progetto l’Italia abbia dato il suo grande contributo grazie a Giuseppe.

W come WAGYU

La Rolls Royce della carne. La regina dei bovini. Il diamante delle proteine. Definitela come volete, ma sta di fatto che quando si parla di eccellenza, la wagyu è il termine che viene subito in mente. Partiamo dal principio: Wagyu è una parola composta formata da due ideogrammi giapponesi, cioè “WA” (, ovvero Giappone) e “GYU” (, semplicemente manzo). Perciò la traduzione letterale è manzo giapponese, anche se in questo caso ci si riferisce a determinate razze nipponiche di manzo, allevate in un certo modo e con una ricca percentuale di grasso intramuscolare. Diciamo che la razza maggiormente diffusa per l’allevamento della Wagyu è la Kuroge Giapponese, dalle quali si possono “ricavare” tre ulteriori razze, ovvero la Itozakura, la Tajiri e la Kedaka. Un’altra razza – nota anche come “razza rossa” – molto adoperata è la Akage. Meno diffuse ma altrettanto prelibate e particolari poi sono la Mukaku e Tankaku.

Non è tutto: c’è “wagyu” e “wagyu“. Infatti la Japan Meat Grading Association ha creato un sistema di classificazione basato sulla quantità di carne altamente qualitativa presente nella carcassa per stabilirne la qualità generale. Il grado più basso è il “C”, mentre “A” rappresenta il top, seguito da un numero che va da 1 a 5 per indicarne il livello di marmorizzazione e colore – 5 è il livello maggiore. Per capirci, se vedete una carne Wagyu classificata A5, state provando il meglio del meglio, ma per quel che mi riguarda non mi dispiacerebbe neanche assaggiare la C1. Bisogna anche aggiungere che c’è un’altra codificazione, ovvero il Beef Marble Score che va da 1 a 12 per indicare il rapporto di grasso rispetto ala carne. Diciamo che è una classificazione propedeutica a quella della JMGA, dato che per essere classificata “A5”, la carne deve avere un BMS uguale o superiore a 8.

Ultima curiosità: sebbene il disciplinare del Ministero dell’Agricoltura Giapponese non consenta il marchio “Wagyu” a carne al di fuori del Sol Levante, anche in altre nazioni è possibile trovare allevamenti di Wagyu, soprattutto in Australia, America, Cina… ed anche da noi! Infatti esistono da anni alcuni allevamenti, soprattutto in Lombardia, ma anche in Veneto ed in Trentino Alto Adige.

X come XADREZ

Neanche mi aspettavo sinceramente di trovare un termine con la “X”, ma apparentemente uno in tema c’è: è la “carne xadrez“, un piatto di origine asiatica ma che pare sia diffuso particolarmente in Brasile – che dovrebbe tradursi come “carne a scacchi” – a base di verdure, fesa, salsa di soia, funghi, peperoni e vari altri ingredienti.

Y come YAKINIKU

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Quante bontà sono nate in Giappone… a queste va aggiunto anche lo Yakiniku (焼肉), un termine che sta ad indicare una varietà di piatti a base di carne (ma anche verdure) alla griglia. Spesso e volentieri viene adoperato il manzo rigorosamente marinato, ma è facile trovare anche altre varianti che contengano pollame o maiale. Lo Yakiniku contempla anche un insieme di altre preparazioni, come la salsa tare, composta da salsa di soia, sakè, mirin (sakè dolce), aglio, sesame e zucchero.

Z come ZUPPA FORTE

Preparazione tipica della cucina partenopea, viene realizzata con la cosiddetta “coratella di maiale”, ovvero le frattaglie del maiale: milza, cuore, polmoni e trachea, insieme a concentrato di pomodoro, peperoncino ed erbe aromatiche, il tutto condito dal vino rosso. P.S.: la ricetta tradizionale prevede anche la “sugna”, un prodotto simile allo strutto. Come spesso accade in situazioni analoghe, questa preparazione nasce dal fatto che un tempo le frattaglie erano considerate veri e propri scarti, venduti quindi ad un prezzo irrisorio, ma pur sempre carne e quindi fonte di proteine e di sostanza. Pare che un tempo le massaie dei vicoli di Napoli reclamavano gli avanzi di carne dalla mensa dei signori dei palazzi altolocati al grido di “‘e zendraglie”, una caratterizzazione del termine francese per “interiora”, ovvero les entrailles.

In un’ipotetica “parte 2” di questo glossario, quali termini in particolare vorreste vedere?

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