Fragolino – Si può vendere o è illegale?
Quante volte capita di guardare tra le file degli scaffali nei supermercati dove si trovano i vini per cercare qualcosa per cena o per un’occasione speciale? E quante volte capita di poggiare lo sguardo su una bevanda chiamata “Fragolino“?
Scommetto che, bene o male, sarà capitato almeno una volta di assaggiarlo, comprarlo o anche solo averne sentito parlare.
Io vivo basandomi su un credo fondamentale: de gustibus, pertanto quel che piace a me sono affari miei, quel che piace a lui/lei sono affari loro, e così via, senza imporre il proprio volere. Ma ammetto che una volta l’ho assaggiato e tanto mi è bastato. Non mi piace affatto e non c’è possibilità che la riprenderò.
Questo è comunque un episodio di diversi anni fa; tuttavia in seguito la mia curiosità verso il Fragolino è salita vertiginosamente. Non per berlo però.
Il fatto è che più di una volta ho sentito dire che in realtà è un prodotto “illegale“. ‘Come è illegale?’ mi sono chiesto. E quindi ho approfondito la questione e… in effetti il vero Fragolino non si potrebbe vendere in Europa: è illegale!
DEFINIZIONE E VITIGNI
Il Fragolino che conosciamo noi è una bevanda a base di vino che viene aromatizzata alla fragola. Quello vero e proprio invece è un vino che viene ricavato dall’uva Fragola (o uva americana), un termine con cui si indicano vari vitigni che appartengono alla Vitis Labrusca, nata negli Stati Uniti e da non confondere con la nostra amata Vitis Vinifera, che dà origine alla vite con cui si producono gli straordinari vini che gustiamo ogni giorno in Italia, Francia e così via. P.S.: per la realizzazione del Fragolino si possono usare anche altri vitigni. Una di queste è l’uva Isabella (o uva fragola nera), un incrocio tra la Vitis Vinifera e la Vitis Labrusca. Una seconda uva, sempre a bacca nera, è l’uva fragola precoce, mentre tra quelle a bacca bianca troviamo l’uva fragola bianca e l’uva fragola bianca precoce. Perché sì: il Fragolino è possibile trovarlo sia bianco che rosso, ma anche sia in versione ferma che frizzante – tutti molto tendenti al dolce.
Il nome dell’uva e del vino è presto detto: il frutto usato per la realizzazione del Fragolino presenta un caratteristico sentore di fragola matura.
INTRODUZIONE IN EUROPA
Nel Vecchio Continente, l’uva Fragola dovrebbe essere presente con una certa sicurezza dal Diciannovesimo secolo. Tuttavia alcune leggende parlano di un’introduzione già nel periodo appena successivo alla scoperta delle Americhe, quando il noto Cristoforo Colombo avrebbe donato un grappolo alla regina Isabella di Castiglia.
Da noi in Italia si adottò con molta velocità, soprattutto nel Settentrione, dato che presentava grandi capacità di adattamento e resistenza sia al freddo che agli attacchi di parassiti. Venne anche adottata come portainnesto per combattere la piaga della filossera, la più grande nemica nella storia del vino. Quindi pare tutto rose e fiori, giusto? Resiste al freddo, agli insetti, ai parassiti, evita la filossera: che vogliamo di più? C’è un “piccolo” problema. Il vino prodotto da quest’uva è alquanto scadente se rapportato ai vini – anche quelli più umili – prodotti con la Vitis Vinifera.
E qui arriviamo al punto. Per evitare di lasciar affossare la vite europea a discapito dell’uva “invasora” americana, fu deciso di salvaguardare il suo patrimonio vitivinicolo, vietando quindi di quella americana e salvaguardare i nostri vini migliori.
LEGISLAZIONE
Ed è così che venne istituita una legge che ne vieta la commercializzazione, ovvero la legge n. 376 del 23 marzo 1931. Va specificato che in realtà era una prima bozza del decreto che ancora oggi ne vieta la vendita; infatti al tempo vietava la coltivazione dei vitigni ibridi produttori diretti, salvo che nelle province in cui gli organi ministeriali ne riconoscano l’utilità e con modalità da stabilirsi con decreto ministeriale. Esso non riguardava perciò l’uva fragola. Fu in seguito, con la legge n. 729 del 2 aprile 1936, che ci fu un primo cambiamento. La norma fu allargata e stabilì che il divieto venisse applicato anche alla coltivazione del vitigno Isabella. Tale coltivazione è peraltro ammessa anche fuori dei limiti stabiliti, nei casi nei quali risulti accertato che è fatta solo allo scopo di produzione di uva destinata al consumo diretto. Al tempo quindi, ad eccezione del divieto teorico della coltivazione privo tuttavia di sanzioni, nulla impediva di coltivare uva fragola di venderla e di vinificarla.
Ci vollero ulteriori decreti per arrivare alla normativa attuale, la quale consente di coltivare l’uva fragola in tutto il territori italiano per il consumo familiare dei viticoltori e come uva da tavola, ma anche l’obbligo di estirpazione per i vigneti che superano l’estensione richiesta per destinare l’uva ad un uso familiare, vietando (e punendo) chi mette in commercio il Fragolino prodotto da Vitis Labrusca.
METANOLO
Coltivazione come uva da tavola, produzione di vino per consumo privato ma assolutamente nessuna commercializzazione. Fu quindi “solo” per salvaguardare le nostre viti che venne adottata tale normativa? In realtà c’è un altro motivo importante, il cui nome corrisponde a “metanolo“: infatti questa uva in fermentazione ne produce una quantità troppo abbondante e quindi, se assunto in abbondanza, può provocare gravi danni, come il famoso scandalo del metanolo nel 1986. Ricordiamo che il metanolo è un alcol naturale che, per l’appunto, può essere dannoso se assunto troppo – addirittura c’è chi perse la vista. Le normali pratiche di vinificazione determinano un contenuto medio in metanolo compreso tra i 60 ed i 150 mg per litro, ma la legge permette (per i bianchi) un massimo di 158,4 mg/L. Per i vini rossi invece si arriva fino ad un massimo di 198 mg/L.
COMMERCIALIZZAZIONE
Quindi, a livello di prodotto puro, il Fragolino NON può essere venduto nell’Unione Europea. Dove lo possiamo trovare in commercio? Soprattutto negli Stati Uniti (d’altronde l’uva Fragola proviene da lì), in Australia ma anche in Svizzera (i nostri cugini elvetici sono sempre stati anticonformisti e non fanno parte dell’Unione Europea). La vera grande eccezione è l’Austria, precisamente nella regione del Burgenland, unica zona dell’UE dove si può commercializzare senza problemi il Fragolino originale, conosciuto come Uhudler.
RECAP
- il vero Fragolino è prodotto da uva Fragola o uva Isabella, derivate dalla Vitis Labrusca, una vite americana;
- il Fragolino che troviamo in Italia non è quello originale, bensì una bevanda a base di vino aromatizzata con zucchero e fragole;
- sebbene sia più resistente al freddo e alle malattie, l’uva Fragola è decisamente meno qualitativa rispetto alle uve della Vitis Vinifera;
- per questo motivo, venne deciso di salvaguardare l’uva europea, vietando di fatto la commercializzazione del Fragolino in Europa (eccetto in Svizzera e nel Burgenland, in Austria) con una legge la cui prima versione fu decretata nel 1931;
- l’uva Fragola può comunque essere coltivata per consumo personale come uva da tavola e si può produrre il Fragolino, ma sempre per consumo personale: ne è vietata invece la commercializzazione.
Che ve ne pare? Eravate a conoscenza di questi dettagli riguardanti il Fragolino?
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