10 vini consigliati del Lazio (bianchi e rossi)
Sapete qual è la parte più bella di possedere un blog? Posso trattare gli argomenti che io preferisco senza dover per forza scivolare nell’ambito dei “migliori”. Questa parola si riferisce ad un concetto puramente soggettivo in molti casi. Vero: con il vino ci sono tantissime classifiche, quindi è facile trovare “il migliore vino del 2021“, “il miglior spumante dell’anno“, “il miglior bianco di Francia” e così via. Ma io mi limito a consigliare vini che ho assaggiato ed apprezzato, rendendo in formato articolo ciò che spesso accade, ovvero consigli di amici che mi chiedono un vino specifico per un’occasione particolare (per un abbinamento, una cena, un regalo, ecc…). Vivendo nell’area dei Castelli Romani, penso sia doveroso iniziare con i vini laziali e, per la precisione, con 5 vini rossi e 5 vini bianchi della nostra regione.
Ripeto: NON è un articolo sui migliori vini del Lazio, bensì su 10 vini che mi piacciono e che consiglio per coloro che magari si trovano alle prime armi e vogliono qualche spunto per i loro acquisti.
VINI ROSSI LAZIALI
“FIORANO” ROSSO – TENUTA DI FIORANO
Voglio iniziare con uno dei miei vini preferiti, gioiello della corona della gamma di Tenuta di Fiorano: se volete approfondire la cantina, trovate maggiori informazioni in questo articolo che ho scritto. Si tratta di una cantina che si trova alle porte di Roma, precisamente nei pressi della Via Appia Antica, all’altezza dell’aeroporto di Ciampino. Qui sorge la cantina del Principe Alessandrojacopo Boncompagni Ludovisi, il quale ha seguito (anzi, da un certo punto di vista, iniziato ex novo) il lavoro del suo predecessore: il Principe Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi, grande amico di due icone del mondo vinicolo quali Luigi Veronelli eTancredi Biondi Santi. La cantina produce circa 30.000 bottiglie all’anno, suddivise nei suoi 4 prodotti: la gamma “Fioranello” nella versione bianca e rossa e la gamma “Fiorano”, anche essa prodotta sia come bianco che come rosso. E proprio questo è il vino che voglio consigliare. Viene realizzato con due vitigni internazionali quali Cabernet Sauvignon e Merlot, fatto maturare in vecchi fusti di rovere di Slavonia da 10 ettolitri. Anche quando è abbastanza giovane risulta avere un bouquet aromatico davvero eccezionale, che a seconda dell’invecchiamento può variare dai piccoli frutti rossi a note balsamiche, passando per spezie e sentori di affumicatura. Sinceramente, se una persona mi viene a chiedere “il migliore vino rosso che consiglieresti” (secondo il mio gusto, è sempre buona cosa ricordarlo), non ci penserei due volte a consigliare il Fiorano Rosso di Tenuta di Fiorano. Consigliatissimo anche come vino da investimento, cioè da farlo invecchiare anche per 20 anni o più. A seconda dell’annata scelta, è possibile trovare questo vino tra i €40 ed i €50.
“MONTIANO” (LAZIO IGT) – FAMIGLIA COTARELLA
Per festeggiare i miei 30 anni, scelsi con i miei migliori amici un grande ristorante come “Pipero” per festeggiare alla grande. Per fare le cose in grande scegliemmo menù degustazione con abbinamento al calice. Fui piacevolmente sorpreso quando, durante il wine pairing, ci ritrovammo nel bicchiere il “Montiano“, probabilmente il prodotto di punta della cantina “Famiglia Cotarella”, prodotto con uve Merlot in purezza. Si tratta di un’azienda con sedi interregionali, ma il suo quartier generale nel Lazio si trova a Montefiascone, quindi la parte settentrionale della regione. La vinificazione prevede una macerazione sulle bucce per 12 giorni, portando al calice poi un colore rosso rubino profondo, con numerose follature (mescolamento delle vinacce nel mosto durante la fermentazione tumultuosa). In seguito, la fermentazione alcolica si svolge in acciaio per 2 settimane, integrata poi dalla fermentazione alcolica che viene eseguita esclusivamente in barrique, affinando nelle stesse per 12 mesi. Tale processo ci porta un prodotto molto elegante, strutturato e complesso; un rosso laziale davvero da grandi occasioni. Leggendo online, mi pare di capire che la 2016 (l’annata che abbiamo degustato) si aggiri sui €52.
“HABEMUS ETICHETTA BIANCA” (LAZIO IGT) – SAN GIOVENALE
Una delle cantine più interessanti che ho visitato nel 2021 è stata “San Giovenale“, situata nella Tuscia, precisamente a Blera (in provincia di Viterbo). Il valore in più della cantina risiede sicuramente nel suo proprietario e fondatore, ovvero Emanuele Pangrazi, che con la sua cultura, la sua simpatia ed il suo amore per il territorio riesce a “catturare” la completa attenzione e stima dei visitatori fin dal primo impatto. La sua tipologia di visita è molto atipica rispetto a quelle classiche. Infatti Emanuele, prima di far assaggiare il prodotto finale, porta i visitatori in bottaia a far assaggiare, direttamente dalle botti, i 4 vini che compongono il blend della tipologia “Etichetta Bianca” dell’Habemus, ovvero: Tempranillo (o Malvasia Nera), Carignano, Syrah e Grenache. Le viti, allevate ad alberello, crescono su un terreno di natura argillosa ad un’altitudine compresa tra i 300 e i 400 metri s.l.m., con agricoltura biologica. Dopo la pigiadiraspatura, la fermentazione alcolica viene scolta con lieviti indigeni in acciaio per 15 giorni, per poi affinare 20 mesi in barrique nuove e almeno 6 mesi in bottiglia. Che cosa si ottiene? Un vino oserei definire “seducente”, corredato da intriganti note floreali e fruttate (in questo caso di frutti di bosco e confettura di prugne) ma anche e soprattutto erbe mediterranee, in perfetta linea con la macchia mediterranea che circonda la cantina. È un vino “capriccioso”, nel senso che berlo troppo giovane potrebbe essere quasi sacrilego, ma se bevuto con i giusti anni di invecchiamento, può rappresentare un’esperienza davvero superiore. La 2018 dovrebbe aggirarsi tra i €50 ed i €55.
CESANESE DI AFFILE RISERVA “CAPOZZANO” (CESANESE DEL PIGLIO DOCG) – FRATELLI FORMICONI
Scendiamo decisamente di fascia di prezzo, ma non per questo di bontà. Mi pareva doveroso includere in questo articolo almeno un vino della DOCG Cesanese del Piglio, unica denominazione di origine controllata e garantita del Lazio a bacca rossa. Qualche anno fa, con la delegazione dei Castelli Romani dell’AIS, facemmo una bellissima esperienza divisa in tre parti sull’influenza della potatura e dei lieviti sulla degustazione. Il secondo appuntamento si svolse in vigna ad Affile (vicino Frosinone), dove apprendemmo i principi teorici del metodo di potatura targato Simonit&Sirch presso l’Azienda Agricola Formiconi. Il loro Cesanese è sempre tra i più premiati – e giustamente, aggiungerei. La macerazione delle bucce avviene per tre settimane con fermentazione a temperatura controllata a circa 25°, per poi affinare in barrique di rovere francese. Il corredo aromatico è molto particolare: forti note floreali quali rosa canina e lavanda, ma anche spezie (vaniglia e liquirizia in particolare) e frutti rossi (frutti di bosco ed amarena). Il Cesanese non è proprio un vino “delicato”, ma nella sua robustezza risulta il compagno perfetto da abbinare a piatti importanti e ricchi. Non sono sicuro perché sono passati circa tre anni, ma mi pare che in cantina la versione “Riserva” del 2017 la pagai circa €18.
CESANESE “CIRSIUM” (Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC) – CIOLLI
Non ha la DOCG, ma anche il Cesanese di Olevano merita di essere menzionato (e gustato) quando si parla del patrimonio vitivinicolo laziale. Si tratta di una DOC che può essere prodotta con una base minima dell’85% di Cesanese di Affile o Cesanese Comune. Sicuramente la migliore espressione che mi sento di consigliare è il “Cirsium” di Damiano Ciolli, di base proprio ad Olevano Romano. Il nome trae ispirazione dal cardo campestre ed è prodotto da un vigneto di Cesanese di Affile di 1 ettaro di 70 anni (allevato ad alberello). La fermentazione (spontanea) viene svolta in cemento, con una macerazione di circa 2 settimane. Come specificato dall’azienda stessa, “il vino viene travasato in botte grande, dove riposa sui suoi depositi fini per i primi 12 mesi. Il secondo anno di invecchiamento avviene in cemento. Dopo l’imbottigliamento Cirsium affina nella nostra cantina per almeno 1 anno”. Insomma, un procedimento laborioso per portare alla luce un prodotto complesso. Spezie e frutti rossi dominano l’espressione olfattiva di questo vino tannico al punto giusto, dalla lunga persistenza e dall’importante struttura. In relazione all’annata, il prezzo dovrebbe aggirarsi sui €32-€33.
VINI BIANCHI LAZIALI
“FIORANO” BIANCO – TENUTA DI FIORANO
Ancora “Tenuta di Fiorano“, ma a ragion veduta. L’azienda produce pochi vini ma tutti di una qualità eccelsa. Il “Fiorano” Bianco è prodotto partendo da uve Grechetto e Viognier, maturato sui lieviti in botti di rovere con lieviti indigeni. È un vino che, sebbene sia bianco, può prestarsi ad un lungo invecchiamento. Il terreno vulcanico contribuisce a produrre un vino corredato da profumi complessi – frutta a polpa gialla, frutta secca, agrumi, sentori floreali e anche pietra focaia – e da durezze perfettamente equilibrate grazie ad un’acidità ed una sapidità perfettamente integrati da una lieve morbidezza. A mio modestissimo parere è uno dei migliori vini bianchi che il Lazio può offrire. Come fascia di prezzo dovremmo girare attorno ai €30.
“LUNA MATER” (FRASCATI SUPERIORE RISERVA DOCG) – FONTANA CANDIDA
C’è poco da dire su questo vino. Il “Frascati Superiore” è una delle tre DOCG del Lazio, particolarmente diffusa nei Castelli Romani, e quest’anno ho avuto modo di assaggiare diverse espressioni di questa denominazione. Per quanto mi siano piaciute tutte, nessuna ha raggiunto lo stesso gusto che provo quando bevo il “Luna Mater“, prodotto di punta della cantina Fontana Candida (situata a Monte Porzio Catone). Il nome è un omaggio alla Madre Luna ed i vigneti da cui si ricava questo eccellente “Frascati” si trovano in collina, tra i 200 e ed i 400 metri. Data la zona, anche qui il terreno è di origine vulcanica e prevede come blend dettato dal disciplinare i vitigni Malvasia bianca di Candia, Malvasia Puntinata, Bombino e Greco. Al netto di eventuali eventi climatici particolari, la raccolta avviene a metà ottobre, con parte degli acini sottoposti a pigiatura e la restante parte a fermentare in botticelle di legno, ma non è tutto: una piccola quantità di uva sottoposta a vendemmia tardiva viene aggiunta al mosto in fermentazione. In seguito si svolgono 12 mesi di affinamento, di cui 4 in bottiglia all’interno di grotte di tufo. Ciò che ne esce fuori è un “Frascati Superiore” davvero sublime. Il guaio è che, dopo averlo descritto, mi è venuta una voglia matta di berlo di nuovo… Il suo prezzo dovrebbe aggirarsi sui €18.
“496” (FRASCATI DOC) – AZIENDA BIOLOGICA DE SANCTIS
Quando ho visitato l’Azienda Biologica De Sanctis a Frascati, le emozioni erano molte: era da praticamente un anno che non visitavo una cantina ed ero contentissimo di tornare a vivere quell’atmosfera che amo vivere ogni volta. Quando poi trovi una bella azienda, grandi prodotti e soprattutto persone squisite dietro questa “merce”, allora diventa tutto straordinario. Nella degustazione dei vini previsti durante l’esperienza, probabilmente quello che più mi ha colpito è stato il primo della batteria, ovvero il “496”. Si tratta di un Frascati DOC, il cui uvaggio prevede un 90% di Malvasia di Candia ed il restante 10% di Trebbiano Toscano. Dopo un’accurata selezione delle uve, la fermentazione di circa 15-20 giorni avviene a temperature controllate in acciaio, seguita da una maturazione per 5 mesi – sempre in acciaio – e per finire 1 mese di affinamento in bottiglia. Per quanto sia buono e gustoso al palato, dalla “beva” facile, è al naso che secondo me dà il meglio di sè con note agrumate, di frutta a polpa bianca e di frutta secca. A mio parere, è un’ottima alternativa all’aperitivo per coloro che non prediligono le bollicine e con €10 la bottiglia è vostra!
EST!EST!!EST!!! DI MONTEFIASCONE DOC – ANTICA CANTINA LEONARDI
Est Est Est Propter Nimivum est hic Jo. Defuk Dominus Mevs Mortus Est.
Questa è la scritta presente sulla lapide del Vescovo Johannes Defuk nella chiesa di San Flaviano, che recita in italiano: “Per il troppo EST! Qui giace morto il mio signore Johannes Defuk”. La leggenda di questo tipico vino bianco laziale è tra le prime che abbia appreso agli inizi dei miei studi ed è una di quelle che mi ha colpito maggiormente, con protagonista proprio il vescovo sopraccitato, il quale era un grande intenditore di vini e nel 1111 accompagnò Enrico V di Germania verso Roma affinché il monarca ricevesse da Papa Pasquale II la corona di imperatore del Sacro Romano Impero. Il vescovo voleva assicurarsi di cogliere i migliori vini del luogo e così mandò in avanscoperta il suo fidato coppiere Martino che doveva precederli lungo il cammino per selezionare i vini migliori. Concordarono un codice: ogni volta che Martino avesse trovato un vino degno di nota, avrebbe dovuto segnalarlo scrivendo “Est”(ovvero “c’è”) vicino alla porta della locanda. Qualora il vino fosse stato eccelso, avrebbe dovuto scrivere due volte “Est”. Quando Martino assaggiò il vino di Montefiascone, ne rimase talmente affascinato che decise di rafforzare il codice segnalandolo con “Est!Est!!Est!!!“, ovvero tre volte “c’è” rafforzato da sei punti esclamativi. Arrivati nella cittadina vicina al lago di Bolsena, anche il vescovo ed il re concordarono con il giudizio del coppiere, prolungando il soggiorno per tre giorni, prima di continuare verso Roma. Conclusa la “missione”, il vescovo tornò a Montefiascone e ci rimase fino alla sua morte. La parte triste di questa leggenda è che morì due anni dopo, sembra proprio a causa di complicazioni derivate dall’eccessivo consumo di vino. Questo è un esempio significativo di come sia bello bere il buon vino ma è necessario farlo con moderazione e senza mai esagerare. La leggenda narra anche che per ringraziare per l’ospitalità ricevuta, il vescovo donò 24.000 scudi alla cittadinanza, a patto che ad ogni ricorrenza della sua morte venisse versata una botticella di vino sul suo sepolcro. Ebbene, dopo questo bel luogo preambolo, mi limito a dire che se volete assaggiare una grandissima qualità di questo vino, il mio consiglio è quello di bere il vino di Antica Cantina Leonardi, situata proprio a Montefiascone, disponibile a circa €8.
“FALESIA” (LAZIO IGT) – PAOLO E NOEMIA D’AMICO
Al confine tra Lazio ed Umbria, precisamente a Castiglione in Teverina, si trova la cantina “Paolo e Noemia d’Amico“, fondata nel 1985 e creata producendo (ad oggi) 10 etichette biologiche usando principalmente vitigni francesi. La particolarità di questi vini è che sono conservati al suono della musica classica nella cantina creata da Noemia d’Amico e dall’architetto Luca Brasini, scavata in rocce di tufo. Il vino bianco che mi sento di consigliare della cantina è il “Falesia”, 100% Chardonnay (probabilmente l’uva a bacca bianca più diffusa nel mondo), affinato in barriques di rovere francese di primo, secondo e terzo passaggio per 10 mesi e successivamente in bottiglia per 12 mesi. È un vino molto apprezzato dalla critica nostrana, così come da quella internazionale – quasi sempre presente nei vini al di sopra dei 90 punti assegnati da James Suckling. Al calice si presenta con un bellissimo giallo dorato, esprimendo invece al naso lodevoli note di frutta a polpa gialla, miele, frutta secca e spezie dolci. Al palato invece si dimostra equilibrato e delicato, con una mineralità ben integrata ma anche una lunga persistenza. Prezzo al dettaglio intorno ai €17.
Insomma, spero che con questo articolo possiate avere spunti su quali vini del Lazio possano valere la pena – secondo il modesto parere del sottoscritto – di essere assaggiati e/o regalati ai nostri cari.
Ovviamente, come specificato all’inizio dell’articolo, questo NON è un articolo sui migliori, sui più costosi, sui più economici, eccetera… Questi sono semplicemente 5 vini rossi e 5 vini bianchi del Lazio che vi consiglio.
Qualcuno l’avete già assaggiato in questa lista?
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