A cena per l’ultimo servizio di chef Terry Giacomello da “Inkiostro” (1 stella Michelin) a Parma
Da circa 3 anni, un po’ per alcuni video su YouTube, un po’ per alcune ricette viste online e un po’ per Masterchef Italia, era entrato prepotentemente nel mio radar Terry Giacomello, chef del ristorante “Inkiostro” a Parma e detentore di una stella Michelin.
Andando a curiosare nel tempo sulla Rete, ho scoperto alcune cose dello chef, come il fatto che fosse di origine friulana, che in passato avesse lavorato per Ferran Adrià (che è come dire che un giovane nuotatore si è allenato con Michael Phelps, tanto per capirci…) ma anche per Andoni Luis Aduriz al Mugaritz e per René Redzepi al Noma, che dal settembre 2015 – se sono informato correttamente – era a capo della cucina di un ristorante stellato a Parma di proprietà della famiglia Poli – e soprattutto che non era un semplice cuoco: insieme a collaboratori come botanici, tecnologi alimentari e chimici, è un vero e proprio ricercatore dell’innovazione, della materia prima atipica, della lavorazione che nessuno penserebbe mai di ideare. Insomma, spavaldo ma estremamente creativo, quel misto di pazzia e genialità che a me ha colpito fin da subito. Tramite una sua vecchia intervista, lo chef ammise che addirittura i primi tempi riceveva degli insulti quando girava tra i tavoli. Purtroppo il bello ed il brutto del nostro Paese da un punto di vista gastronomico è che abbiamo una radicata tradizione culinaria, che ancora oggi ci offre prodotti e piatti che tutto il mondo ci invidia, ma guai ad osare se dipendesse da alcune persone. Ma questa è un’altra storia…
Per questa serie di motivi mi ero promesso che, in qualche modo, sarei dovuto passare da Parma per sperimentare la sua cucina con i prodotti tipici dell’Emilia insieme a quelli esotici che lui ricerca sempre, molti dei quali coltiva direttamente nell’orto posto dietro al locale. E se devo essere onesto, ad agosto sarei andato secondo i miei piani. Dopo la mia settimana in Liguria, con ripartenza da La Spezia, avrei fatto un “detour” a Parma per gustarmi l’ultima cena libera nelle mie ferie proprio da lui. Era un piano perfetto, se non fosse che a fine giugno 2021 la stampa gastronomica rilancia la bomba: Terry Giacomello lascia Inkiostro. E ora?
Non ero disperato però ero abbastanza triste – oltre che sorpreso. Era da tempo che volevo vivere quest’esperienza gastronomica alternativa, finalmente il piano stava prendendo vita e poi invece tutto si è smontato. Ma alla fine ho fatto due conti e mi sono accorto che il 31 luglio 2021 io non avevo piani pregressi che mi avrebbero impedito di salire a Parma. E così sono salito a Parma – la mia prima volta, troppo breve sicuramente da non meritarsi un ritorno più approfondito. Francamente ero davvero felice quando la sera di quel sabato di fine luglio avrei fatto una cena diversa da ogni altra mai fatta prima di allora e che, inoltre, sarebbe coincisa con l’ultimo servizio in quel ristorante da parte dello chef. D’altronde, non avendo condiviso alcun dettaglio sulla sua prossima avventura, avrei rischiato che magari si sarebbe spostato all’estero, che avrebbe aperto chissà quando, che magari si sarebbe preso un anno sabbatico. Insomma, non volevo rischiare e ho fatto benissimo a salire perché la cena… beh, ora vi racconto come è andata.
Tre uomini ed una donna in sala hanno orchestrato la cena di tutti i commensali come se fossero gli ingranaggi di un meccanismo perfettamente coordinato ed affiatato. Nessuna imposizione nel servizio (tipo venire a chiedere ogni 10 minuti “Come va, signori: tutto bene?”, un’accortezza che è sempre giusto avere ma con le dosi corrette) e una costante attenzione nella cura del cliente. Ci sono stati solo due “nei” nella serata. Niente di trascendentale, sia chiaro, ma non voglio poi far passare il mio racconto come una “marchetta” e sono comunque due episodi che penso sia giusto raccontare.
Non volendo optare per l’abbinamento al calice o per una bottiglia, viro su un calice per rinfrescarmi; ancora meglio, per scoprire qualcosa di nuovo, magari del territorio. Per questo, quando uno dei ragazzi mi chiede cosa gradissi da bere, ho semplicemente risposto: “un vino locale e particolare”. E qui comincia l’errore [bilaterale], perché sebbene il cameriere mi porti una bottiglia che centra perfettamente il bersaglio (un Metodo Classico emiliano con un vitigno che io praticamente non conoscevo, davvero complesso e intrigante sia al naso che al palato), io ho sbagliato a non chiedere il prezzo ma allo stesso tempo il cameriere non mia ha prima illustrato il prezzo del prodotto. Alla fine sul conto quel calice recitava €15. Per carità, è un ristorante stellato, è un prodotto complesso (4 anni sui lieviti) e tutti gli altri fattori che possono incidere, ma avrei gradito molto di più se fosse stato illustrato il prezzo prima di procedere. È stata una piccola pecca ma niente che potesse rovinare la serata – ed infatti così non è stato.
Avevo una certezza, ovvero quella di virare sul menù degustazione. D’altronde, come racconto sempre nei miei articoli e come dico sempre a chi mi chiede consigli, modestamente credo che l’opzione migliore sia sempre quella di optare per un menù degustazione. In primis perché è economicamente più ragionevole, dato che si ammortizzano i costi ma allo stesso tempo si massimizza in termini di portate – basti pensare che questo menù prevedeva ben 15 portate, più diversi amuse-bouche e la piccola pasticceria. Se avessi preso alla carta anche solo un quinto di quel che era incluso nel menù, il costo (€145, bevande escluse) sarebbe probabilmente raddoppiato. In secondo luogo, si dà modo a chi è in cucina di esprimere il meglio di loro. Ovviamente vanno considerati due fattori importanti: la disponibilità economica e la voglia di avventura gastronomica (c’è la possibilità che alcune portate non piacciano per gusti personali).
Tuttavia, curiosando sulla carta, vedo un piatto a base di rane e lì la curiosità prende il sopravvento. Così, quando la signora torna da me per la comanda, le dico che vorrei optare per il menù, chiedendo però se fosse stato possibile sostituire una pietanza del menù con il piatto di rane. Mi viene replicato che farà un tentativo in cucina. Io, conscio che comunque non è una richiesta proprio facile, mi aspetto che probabilmente non sarà possibile e difatti per più di metà del menù non arrivano le rane e non mi viene detto nulla al riguardo. Tuttavia, ad un certo punto, eccole: coscette di rana, aceto di birra, tapenade di olive taggiasche, romesco e foglie di cappero.
Ero contentissimo perché non avevo mai mangiato le rane in vita mia. Ciò nonostante, vedo che le portate restano sempre le stesse e alla fine sul conto ritrovo tutto il menù più le rane. Invece che sostituirle ad un piatto, le rane sono state aggiunte. Oltre al fatto che stavo letteralmente scoppiando, avevo scandito bene la parola “sostituire”. Ma alla fine, il costo del piatto è stato praticamente dimezzato (invece di €28 le hanno accreditate a €15), ho provato un piatto davvero gustoso ed atipico e quindi alla fine è andata alla grande. Questi sono gli unici due peli nell’uovo di una cena che, altrimenti, è stata DIVINA. E ora veramente parto con il racconto.
Purtroppo con il primo quartetto di amuse-bouche non sono stato reattivo al 100% nell’annotare tutto, anzi; praticamente nulla. E così, dovrei riuscire ad aver scritto che (in basso a sinistra) c’è un rollè di polpa di crostacei con alga nori essiccata e maionese al cardoncello, alla sua destra una chips croccante al caramello di zucca con i suoi semi tostati. Gli altri due non li ho annotati correttamente (uno aveva fagioli e uova di merluzzo), ma posso dire che tutti e quattro hanno svolto perfettamente il loro compito, cioè riscaldare i motori del palato in previsione di un pasto al di fuori dei canoni normali.
La successiva sequenza di benvenuti dello chef è stata altrettanto gustosa e davvero divertente. Da una parte una treccia di Parmigiano Reggiano nel suo siero, mentre dall’altra un bombolone ripieno di coda alla vaccinara. Il primo mi ha colpito sia per la consistenza della treccia – un modo diverso di gustare il Parmigiano Reggiano – esaltato dalla temperatura del siero, mentre per chi come il sottoscritto viene dalla provincia di Roma, mangiare la coda alla vaccinara in un solo boccone è sempre un piacere davvero singolare.
Insieme alla prima portata (su quindici!) del menù, arrivano pane (ovviamente spettacolare, caldo e fatto con lievito madre), grissini e un vero peccato di gola: “Streghe Bolognesi” (che possono essere lontanamente paragonate a dei cracker) accompagnati da una piccola pipa contenente del grasso irrancidito di prosciutto crudo di Parma.
Anche con la seconda portata, lo Chef vuole celebrare la terra che lo ospita, e così la portata “PARMA” vede un doppio sablé di Parmigiano Reggiano 24 mesi che racchiude al suo interno una mousse all’aceto balsamico di Modena invecchiato 25 anni, il tutto accompagnato da una maionese di noci. Posso assicurarvi che, sebbene ci sia il modo di dire “il troppo stroppia”, un’accoppiata così intrinseca di sapore non basterebbe mai ad appagare la voglia di gusto! Che bontà… il tutto con prodotti davvero tipici di Parma e dell’Emilia in generale.
Con la terza portata trattiamo l’incubo di coloro che mangiano la pasta al dente: “PASTA ‘SCOTTA‘”, ovvero eliche giganti con tendini del vitello, gocce di olio al peperoncino e foglie d’aglio. Ammetto che quest’ultimo ingrediente mi ha un po’ spaventato, sia per l’intensità che per il gusto. Confesso di non essere mai stato un grandissimo fan dell’aglio, pertanto mangiarne le foglie non era qualcosa di prevedibile. Tuttavia, in piatti come questo, è possibile vedere come niente sia lasciato al caso e di come tutto abbia un senso quando viene incastrato in questo meccanismo perfettamente coordinato.
Con la quarta portata andiamo su uno dei piatti più strambi che le mie papille gustative abbiano mai assaporato. “MYOGA“. Si tratta del fiore di zenzero, il quale viene macerato per 7 giorni in un estratto di rapa rossa, condito con sciroppo d’uva, aceto di lamponi, un mix di sale e zucchero muscovado, il tutto accompagnato da una crema di Shropshire (un formaggio erborinato dalla Gran Bretagna). Non so se fosse il fiore di zenzero, il suo condimento o un ibrido di entrambi, ma assicuro che il palato viene scosso come se fosse arrivasse una scossa di terremoto! Tanta, tantissima acidità, una piccantezza non indifferente, il tutto “confuso” dall’utilizzo del sale e dello zucchero che quasi a fasi alterne incrementano e diminuiscono le sensazioni tattili. Accompagnare il tutto alla crema del formaggio blu aiuta sicuramente a bilanciare il gusto. Piatto davvero atipico, non per tutti, ma una piacevole scoperta.
Allo chef piace ingannare il palato, pertanto è prassi comune ritrovare nei suoi piatti sapori che riconducono ad un determinato alimento ma senza necessariamente renderlo protagonista. Sarebbe più facile assaggiare che spiegare, ma un buon esempio è dato dalla quinta portata del menù: “CECI“. Qui lo chef ha deciso di ricreare il sapore dei ceci tramite una pasta di sesamo bianco e burro di cacao, condendo il tutto con un brodo di ceci.
A seguire, una nuova chiave di lettura – almeno per quel che mi riguarda – dei funghi porcini. Con “FUNGO GLACIALIS“, chef Giacomello realizza dei funghi porcini tramite l’estrazione del loro succo dalla quale viene creata una specie di granita a scaglie, arricchita da un distillato analcolico di muschio. Sottobosco a non finire per le papille che, dapprima, restano ghiacciate (in tutti i sensi) dalla temperatura del piatto, ma che poi si lasciano sedurre da questo gusto di fungo non convenzionale.
Con la portata “MANGIANDO OSSA” possono venire in mente diverse immaginazioni, ma con la creatività dello chef friulano ci sarebbe una probabilità infinitesimale di beccare il piatto – ed infatti ciò non avviene. Al tavolo mi viene servito uno strano alimento che dovrebbe ricordare nella forma l’ossobuco ma che, con esso, non condivide nulla: mi viene servito un cuore di palma cotto a bassa temperatura, accompagnato da una salsa all’ossobuco. Francamente, mai mi sarei immaginato in vita mia di mangiare una palma! Quando lo chef viene intervistato, dice sempre che il suo obiettivo è stupire (positivamente) il cliente e qui, come già avvenuto precedentemente nel percorso ma forse ancora di più, ci è riuscito alla grande! Da sola, la palma aveva una forte nota amaricante ma accompagnata dalla salsa era perfettamente bilanciata, rendendo il piatto facile da mangiare e piacevole da gustare. Anche qui, veramente, chapeau.
Nonostante una carriera in giro per il mondo e il ristorante in Emilia, lo chef non dimentica le sue origini e anzi: le omaggia con il prossimo piatto. “BLAVE” in friulano significa semplicemente “pannocchia”, pertanto la cucina propone una piccola pannocchia resa tale grazie ad una purea di mais, servita accanto da crema di Huitlacoche (conosciuto anche come “tartufo di mais”, ovvero un fungo che intacca la pannocchia e la ossida). Tributo a casa e ingredienti atipici: un connubio che io ho apprezzato davvero molto.
Avendo superato il giro di boa mi pare doveroso precisare qualcosa che, ahimé, è necessario fare ogni volta a causa dei detrattori che non trovano niente di meglio da fare di criticare l’alta cucina. Vero, le porzioni erano molto minute; per fortuna, oserei dire! Tralasciando il fatto che io preferisco 10 piccoli assaggi ad un piatto gigante, il menù in questione prevede, tra benvenuti, portate e piccola pasticceria, una cosa come 20 piatti diversi. Ridurre al minimo sindacale la quantità nel piatto è fondamentale per non far implodere i commensali. Questo ovviamente è un discorso da fare per un menù così complesso. Sicuramente, qualora si optasse per qualcosa alla carta, la situazione cambierebbe ma, in un’ottica di menù degustazione, la qualità deve prevalere sulla quantità e, spoiler alert, la cucina ci è riuscita appieno!
Riprendendo il racconto della cena, ora passiamo ad un piatto che è inevitabilmente legato allo chef. Il “TERRY BURGER” è infatti quanto di più lontano ci possa essere dal classico hamburger perché qui non c’è pane o carne. La genialità qui non conosce limiti, ma è proprio la ricerca che ha permesso la realizzazione di questo capolavoro. Anzi, come raccontato da Reporter Gourmet, è stato durante il lockdown nazionale del 2020 che lo chef ha sperimentato qualcosa che gli permettesse di ottenere un pane che però non fosse un pane. “Con uno zucchero che si chiama pullulano, scovato su internet, a febbraio avevo realizzato l’esperimento di un pane non pane, composto di albume, colla di pesce e questo polisaccaride che ha un basso potere dolcificante, ma dà struttura alla meringa, per una testura finale quasi di marshmallow”. I ‘bun’ infatti sono dei marshmallow salati ai semi di zucca, mentre la “carne” è sostituita da una tartare di pomodori che vengono marinati nel caffè e nella salsa di soia. Al posto della banale sottiletta, lo chef ha usato come formaggio una gelatina di siero di Parmigiano Reggiano. Solo la parte verde è quasi convenzionale, con una foglia di lattuga essiccata a posizionarsi in basso nel finto burger.
Con la prossima pietanza vengono uniti in particolare due elementi: uno dei miei preferiti in assoluto ed uno sconosciuto e – potenzialmente – letale! Il primo riguarda i ricci di mare, un dono dei nostri mari che con il tempo riesco ad apprezzare sempre di più. L’altro invece è l’Ackee, un albero da frutto originario dell’Africa occidentale da cui fu importato in Giamaica nel diciottesimo secolo; proprio in questo Paese caraibico ha raggiunto fin da subito un incredibile successo, rendendolo de facto il frutto nazionale. La sua principale particolarità è che è velenoso, dato che contiene ipoglicina A, un veleno che può provocare vomito con profonda ipoglicemia nella migliore delle ipotesi, ma in casi estremi portare anche ad uno stato di coma o peggio alla morte. Il frutto, di per sè, è pericoloso se mangiato acerbo, ma quando è maturo diventa commestibile e una volta cucinato risulta essere un prelibato alimento. Signore e Signori: “ACKEE E RICCI“.
Con “ASTICE” andiamo a trattare uno di quegli ingredienti che immediatamente richiamano al lusso. D’altronde, parliamo di un crostaceo che in termini di prestigio è probabilmente secondo solo all’aragosta. Per l’occasione, lo chef lo propone grigliato con tre salse accanto a comporre un tricolore. La rossa è composta da foglia di kaffir, lime e annatto (quest’ultimo è praticamente un colorante naturale). La bianca invece invece è realizzata con un sake Doburoku (non filtrato quindi, da un certo punto di vista illegale in alcune Prefetture giapponesi); la verde invece è fatta con pesce, cipolla, aglio, agrumi, tonno essiccato e alga nori.
Con la dodicesima portata, tocchiamo gustativamente parlando (i miei gusti, sia chiaro) l’unica nota dolente della serata. Infatti io non sono in generale un grande carnivoro e sicuramente non sono un grande fan della carne cruda, pertanto la tartare non è mai qualcosa che vado a ricercare. Questa “TARTARE” era pluma di maiale, ovvero la parte di carne dell’animale tra il lombo e il collo, con un gelato fatto con salsa Worcestershire e una salsa che è la riduzione del fondo di maiale. Era un filo gelatinosa e, sebbene l’abbia finita, avrei preferito di gran lunga sostituire questa portata con le coscette di rana. Lì avremmo toccato la perfezione per i miei canoni gustativi, ma anche così è andata più che bene.
La portata numero 13 risulta essere un pre-dessert. “BOTTARGA” è uno spaghetto di burro nocciola con bottarga di albicocca essiccata. Davvero un’idea particolare e con un retrogusto dolciastro che spiazza il palato.
La penultima portata è veramente la rappresentazione migliore dell’estro di Terry Giacomello, della sua creatività e della sua ricerca. In questo caso il mondo della cucina irrompe con molto impeto nel mondo dell’arte. A fine 2019 l’artista contemporaneo Maurizio Cattelan ha stupito il mondo all’Art Basel di Miami Beach. Come? Attaccando ad un muro una banana con un po’ di nastro adesivo. Tale atto, che ha fatto lievitare l’opera fin da subito alla valutazione di $120.000, è stata resa ancora più leggendaria dal fatto che David Datuna l’abbia mangiata – perché giustamente colto da un attacco di fame. Ebbene, chef Giacomello ha deciso di replicare esattamente questa opera, ma per riuscirci era necessario prima rendere commestibile la buccia della banana; atto impossibile a chi ci pensa, realtà dopo che lo chef si è messo a studiare e a sperimentare. Non sono certo al 100% sulla bontà delle informazioni che sto per condividere, ma dopo aver letto un po’ qua e un po’ la in Rete, ho trovato che la buccia ha subito un processo di osmotizzazione, immersa per due giorni in una soluzione di acido citrico ed acqua, con il contributo di un enzima che la rende particolarmente morbida e soffice. A replicare il nastro adesivo che sorreggeva la banana di Cattelan è invece una cialda di torrone. Che dire? Non saprei, non ci sono molte altre parole da aggiungere…
Con “LA MIA MILLEFOGLIE”, si conclude alla grande questo menù degustazione che ad oggi risulta essere l’esperienza gastronomica più sconvolgente della mia vita. Si tratta di una spuma di pasta sfoglia inserita tra due foglie di alloro che vengono lavate nel bicarbonato per rimuoverne la clorofilla (ovvero la colorazione verde) sopra ad una polvere di crema pasticcera. Inoltre – purtroppo non si vede – accanto è stato servito un piccolo bicchierino contenente un drink a base di gin ed albume.
Come ad ogni pasto d’alta cucina che si rispetti, il tutto viene concluso definitivamente dalla piccola pasticceria. Purtroppo qui ormai penna e taccuino erano stari riposti e la mente era occupata a coordinare l’operazione di digestione, dato che questo incredibile pasto mi aveva letteralmente riempito lo stomaco.
Insomma, se sono stato bravo, sono riuscito a trasmettervi un minimo la passione e le emozioni che la cucina di “Inkiostro” mi hanno fatto provare in una lunga (3 ore e mezza!) cena, davvero incantevole.
Come ciliegina sulla torta? Non potevo certamente esimermi dal chiedere allo staff un incontro lampo con lo chef. Dopo neanche 10 secondi, lo chef esce dalla cucina, mi stringe la mano e io lo ringrazio per l’esperienza meravigliosa. Lui era già pronto a tornare dentro la cucina; d’altronde da lì a pochi minuti avrebbe riposto la sua giacca al chiodo di “Inkiostro” per l’ultima volta. Ma prima che ritornasse nel suo regno, gli ho chiesto il favore di poterci scattare una foto insieme. Lo chef era quasi imbarazzato, dicendo “di essere in condizioni inaccettabili”, pertanto torna dentro per indossare la sua giacca – per quel che mi riguarda, se anche si fosse presentato con una maglia di rugby sporca di fango per me sarebbe andato benissimo xD – ma alla fine siamo riusciti a scattarci la foto, un ricordo prezioso di una cena bellissima, fatta presso il ristorante di uno chef che bramavo da tempo di conoscere e soprattutto da cui assaggiare tutti i suoi piatti psichedelici. E così, in questa occasione, c’è stato un gradito lieto fine.
Che dire? Per alcuni, tutto quello che ho detto finora è aria fritta: piatti strambi, ingredienti mai sentiti, porzioni minuscole, prezzi importanti. Ma che devo dirvi: io mi sono emozionato. Non al punto da piangere, sia chiaro, ma gustativamente parlando è stato il pasto più incredibile della mia vita.
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При использовании портала могут возникнуть сложности
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