A pranzo da “La Filetteria Italiana” (Milano), concorrente di “Alessandro Borghese – 4 Ristoranti”
AGGIORNATO AL NOVEMBRE 2021
Si sa: “Alessandro Borghese – 4 Ristoranti” è un fenomeno mediatico ormai consolidato nel panorama italiano. Nella terza edizione (2016-2017) si svolse una delle mie puntate preferite, ovvero quella focalizzata sulla migliore offerta di carne alla griglia in quel di Milano.
Sebbene non fosse riuscito a vincere la puntata (che si aggiudicò il locale argentino “San Telmo“), rimasi molto colpito dal locale di Edoardo Maggiori, il quale reputa il filetto come il taglio più importante – o quantomeno il migliore da servire – nello sconfinato mondo delle carni.
Il suo locale, chiamato “La Filetteria Italiana“, non solo concentra la sua offerta gastronomica sui filetti, ma si mette in risalto per un’altra particolarità: la provenienza di queste carni. Alla fine noi in Italia mangiamo carni comuni come manzo, vitello, maiale, cinghiale, agnello, eccetera. Poi ovviamente ci sono anche carni più atipiche ma comunque parte del nostro patrimonio, come quella di cavallo o come quella di cervo.
Qui invece si parla di carni appartenenti ad animali che, in Italia, si possono trovare al massimo negli zoo: dalle zebre ai canguri, dal cammello allo struzzo. Ma andiamo con ordine.
Edoardo è l’amministratore delegato del Gruppo Sun Tzu, holding che raggruppa i brand Magnaki, Nuda e Cruda e appunto “La Filetteria Italiana”, che a Milano oggi conta 7 ristoranti (Navigli, zona Repubblica, Corso Garibaldi, Via A. Vespucci, Via Marghera, Piazza Oberdan e Via Piero della Francesca. Il primo ristorante nacque nel 2015, ma solo nel 2019 ha cominciato la sua espansione grazie all’entrata in società del suo socio Andrea Lupo.
In questi anni Edoardo si è dato da fare per offrire una ristorazione di qualità tramite un uso elegante della carne, “divertendosi” con l’origine delle varietà di filetti utilizzati. A metà novembre 2021 ho avuto modo di visitare il ristorante situato vicino al Castello Sforzesco, in Corso Garibaldi (clicca qui per vedere il video dell’esperienza) ed ecco come è andata.
ANTIPASTI
C’è una bella varietà da cui attingere. Ci sono diverse tipologie di spiedini (di manzo con l’origano, di vitello con il pistacchio e salsa teryaki e di canguro al chimichurri), una deliziosa polenta con crema cacio e pepe e uovo all’occhio di bue, un tomino grigliato con bresaola di Wagyu, una caprese confit, fiori di zucca e una lingua di vitellone. Ad eccezione di quest’ultimo (€15), gli altri variano tra i €10 ed i €12. Inoltre, per chi preferisce il crudo, ci sono diverse tartare (manzo, vitello, cervo, cavallo e vegana) e alcuni carpacci (di manzo e vitello). Qui i prezzi variano dai €16 ai €18. Infine, per chi volesse condividere (come abbiamo fatto noi), c’è la possibilità di ordinare taglieri che comprendono varie pietanze. Noi, con il “Sua Maestà Italiana” a €45, in 3 abbiamo condiviso la polenta, due tartare, il tomino, la caprese e gli spiedini. Davvero una nota a parte per la polentina: eccezionale!
FILETTI
Ed ora passiamo alla specialità della casa: i filetti. Categorizzati sotto la voce “ferroso ed intenso” troviamo: il canguro, lo struzzo, il cammello, il cavallo ed il bovino adulto australiano. Uno di noi ha ordinato quello di canguro: avendolo assaggiato, posso dire che è una carne davvero particolare, probabilmente più “ferrosa” rispetto alla mia che è stata invece il cammello. Tra i due c’è anche una certa differenza di prezzo: €22 (come il cavallo) del canguro contro i €29 del cammello – come lo struzzo e il bovino australiano. Io personalmente ho optato per il cammello: si è rivelata una carne davvero atipica, forse molto più apprezzata dai miei amici che da me.
Infine la terza scelta è stata quella della zebra (€30), una delle carni categorizzate tra quelle delicate – ed infatti la sua consistenza ed il suo sapore richiamano molto la carne equina. Altri filetti appartenenti alla categoria sono la Chianina, la Fassona (entrambi a €23), manzo irlandese premium prime, bovino adulto tedesco e bovino adulto argentino; il tutti oscillanti tra i €28 ed i €31. Menzione a parte per quella maestria di Kobe, venduta €50 all’etto.
C’è poi una terza categoria di filetti, “dal sapore deciso e sapido”, ed include: cervo, renna, cinghiale, bisonte, agnello, bovino adulto brasiliano e bovino adulto uruguayano. Ad eccezione del bisonte, che è il più caro con €43, gli altri partono dai €23 del cinghiale ai €35 della renna.
Va sottolineata anche una cosa: tutti i filetti vengono accompagnati da delle salse che vengono scelte dallo chef. Se poi si volesse richiederne una extra, ce ne sono 12 diverse da cui attingere, ognuna che costa €2,50 l’una.
Come contorni poi avevamo 8 scelte diverse: caponatina in due cotture, patate al cartoccio, verdure grigliate, purè di patate, patate al forno, funghi trifolati, purea di zucca e carciofi gratinati – ognuno da €7 l’uno. Noi abbiamo optato per la caponatina e la patata al cartoccio con panna acida e pancetta croccante.
DESSERT
Su questa voce posso dire poco perché non abbiamo optato per il dolce. In carta ci sono bounet, panna cotta al rosmarino, cannolo siciliano, cheesecake ai frutti di bosco, mascarponata al lampone e tiramisù al basilico (€7 l’uno).
L’acqua viene invece sta a €2 a bottiglia, mentre il coperto ammonta a ben €3,50 a persona (un po’ alto, secondo me). Molto carina la carta dei vini, dalla quale abbiamo identificato un Etna Rosso DOC 2017 di Cottanera come partner ideale dei nostri filetti esotici (€40).
PENSIERO FINALE
Facciamo i conti… con il conto:
Di fatto il vino che abbiamo scelto è venuto €13 a persona, mentre l’antipasto diviso in tre è venuto €15 ciascuno. Ovviamente le carni hanno influito molto sul conto finale, in particolare filetti come quello di zebra (€30) e cammello (€29). €13 invece è la cifra a persona per acqua e contorni, più i €3,50 del coperto.
Non posso lamentarmi perché abbiamo mangiato bene e soprattutto piatti sfiziosi, con carni atipiche. Tuttavia, considerando che non abbiamo preso dessert e caffè, ritengo €67 a persona una cifra non comunque trascurabile. L’unico aspetto negativo che mi ha fatto storcere il naso è stato lo spazio: a tavola ci muovevamo a malapena e i tavoli erano davvero vicini tra di loro. Diciamo che non c’era molta mobilità, ma era anche il pranzo domenicale e le persone hanno voglia di uscire, pertanto…
Tornerei? Perché no!? Tra Kobe, struzzo e filetto di bisonte, c’è ancora molto da assaggiare.
LA FILETTERIA ITALIANA – GARIBALDI
- Corso Garibaldi, 17, 20121 Milano
- 02 4971 3454
- garibaldi@filetteriaitaliana.it
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