Barolo DOCG vs Barbaresco DOCG: le differenze

Se il mondo del vino italiano avesse un passaporto, probabilmente la foto che troveremmo al suo interno sarebbe quella del Barolo, il vero e proprio Re dei vini (non solo italiani e non solo rossi).

Sono diversi i personaggi storici a cui va attribuita la nascita del Barolo moderno, in particolare Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, i Marchesi Falletti e l’enologo Louis Oudart. Ma per fortuna in Piemonte, con la produzione di vini straordinario, ci sanno fare eccome; pertanto potremmo collocare come suo partner l’altrettanto nobile Barbaresco. Anzi, spesso e volentieri vengono associati per struttura, prestigio e capacità di invecchiamento ed in effetti spartiscono entrambi i vini, oltre alla Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, anche l’uva adoperata per la produzione, ovvero il Nebbiolo.

In questo breve articolo mi piacerebbe illustrare le principali caratteristiche di questo vitigno fondamentale per la viticoltura piemontese e le differenze tra il Barolo e il Barbaresco, le due superpotenze dei vini rossi piemontesi. Ovviamente l’intento non è quello di far passare un vino migliore dell’altro perché, per il sottoscritto, vige la sacra regola del “de gustibus non est disputandum“, ovvero che i gusti sono soggettivi, ma credo che sia importante cogliere cosa accomuna e cosa differenzia questi due grandi vini rossi piemontesi.

NEBBIOLO

Potremmo definire il Nebbiolo come un’uva un po’ “viziata”. Nella sua zona prediletta – come appunto le Langhe – riesce a dare il meglio di sè, ma se la si sposta dalla sua zona di comfort questa importantissima uva perde molte delle sue caratteristiche. Fortunatamente ci sono delle piacevolissime eccezioni, soprattutto in Lombardia. Partiamo dalle basi: il Nebbiolo è un vitigno autoctono dalle radici molto lunghe; una caratteristica molto importante che permette alla pianta di estrarre e riportare nel prodotto finale le caratteristiche del terreno. In questo modo è molto comune riuscire a trovare spiccate differenze organolettiche – soprattutto all’olfatto e al gusto – anche tra vini prodotti in vigneti poco distanti tra di loro.

Una delle ragioni più accreditate per il conio del nome va attribuita al fatto che la raccolta avviene a fine ottobre, facendo sì che la nebbia invada il territorio durante la vendemmia. Secondo altre teorie invece il nome Nebbiolo deriverebbe da “nebbia”, dato che per l’abbondante pruina i suoi acini sembrano quasi “annebbiati”. La verità è che ci sono molte versioni che attribuiscono l’origine del nome ma queste solitamente sono le più accreditate.

È chiamato localmente anche Spanna, mentre per i vini delle Valli Ossolane DOC con uve raccolte nella provincia di Verbano-Cusio-Ossola si chiama Prunent. Inoltre, in Lombardia è conosciuto come Chiavennasca, ma la realtà è che ci sono molti altri sinonimi.

In Italia questo vitigno viene o può essere adoperato nella produzione di 36 vini IGT, 22 vini DOC e 7 DOCG: in Piemonte lo si utilizza per il Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara, Ghemme (almeno per l’85%), Roero (almeno per il 95%) e in Lombardia per il Valtellina Superiore (almeno per il 90%) e lo Sforzato della Valtellina. Probabilmente chi ha studiato enologia potrebbe riempire più di un libro nel dare una panoramica completa sul Nebbiolo, ma per evitare di scivolare su terreni insidiosi mi fermo qui. 

Passiamo ora alle differenze principali tra il Barolo e il Barbaresco.

ANNO DELLA DENOMINAZIONE

Entrambi i vini sono passati prima dalla Denominazione di Origine Controllata e successivamente alla DOCG.

La DOC del Barolo venne approvata con il Decreto del Presidente della Repubblica (DPR) il 23 aprile del 1966, successivamente aggiunto alla Gazzetta Ufficiale (G.U.) il 15 giugno del 1966. La DOCG del Barolo invece venne approvata con DPR il primo luglio del 1980, successivamente aggiunto alla G.U. il 22 gennaio del 1981.

La DOC del Barbaresco venne approvata anche essa con DPR il 23 aprile del 1966, successivamente aggiunto alla G.U. il 14 giugno del 1966. La DOCG del Barbaresco invece venne approvata con DPR il 3 ottobre del 1980, successivamente aggiunto alla G.U. il 03 settembre del 1981.

ALTITUDINE

Per il Barolo DOCG l’altitudine non deve essere inferiore ai 170 metri sopra il livello del mare e non superiore ai 540 metri s.l.m.. La giacitura deve essere esclusivamente collinare, infatti sono da escludere categoricamente i terreni di fondovalle, umidi, pianeggianti e non sufficientemente soleggiati.

Per il Barbaresco DOCG l’altitudine non deve essere superiore ai 550 metri s.l.m.. La giacitura deve essere esclusivamente collinare, infatti sono da escludere categoricamente i terreni di fondovalle, umidi, pianeggianti e non sufficientemente soleggiati.

ZONA DELLA PRODUZIONE

Per il Barolo, secondo il disciplinare di produzione, “la zona di origine delle uve atte a produrre i vini a denominazione di origine controllata e garantita «Barolo», comprendente i territori già delimitati con decreto ministeriale 31 agosto 1933, pubblicato nella gazzetta ufficiale del 12 ottobre 1933, n. 238, nonché quelli per i quali ricorrono le condizioni di cui al secondo comma dell’articolo 1 del D.P.R. 12 luglio 1963, n. 930, include l’intero territorio dei comuni di Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba ed in parte il territorio dei comuni di Monforte d’Alba, Novello, La Morra, Verduno, Grinzane Cavour, Diano d’Alba, Cherasco e Roddi ricadenti nella provincia di Cuneo”. Pertanto, per essere chiamato Barolo, il vino deve essere prodotto esclusivamente nella zona di questi 11 Comuni. 

Per il Barbaresco, secondo il disciplinare di produzione, “la zona di origine delle uve atta a produrre i vini a denominazione di origine controllata e garantita «Barbaresco» comprendente i territori già delimitati con decreto ministeriale 31 agosto 1933, pubblicato nella Gazzetta Ufficiale n. 238, del 12 ottobre 1933, nonché quelli per i quali ricorrono le condizioni di cui al secondo comma dell’art. 1 del decreto del Presidente della Repubblica 12 luglio 1963, n. 930, include l’intero territorio dei comuni di Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso (già frazione di Barbaresco) e la parte della frazione «San Rocco Senodelvio» già facente parte del comune di Barbaresco ed aggregata al comune di Alba con decreto del Presidente della Repubblica 17 aprile 1957, n. 482, ricadenti nella provincia di Cuneo. Pertanto, per essere chiamato Barbaresco, il vino deve essere prodotto esclusivamente nella zona di questi 4 Comuni. 

CARATTERISTICHE AL CONSUMO

Per il Barolo DOCG, il vino deve avere un titolo alcolometrico volumico totale minimo del 13,00% vol, con «menzione geografica aggiuntiva» e «vigna»: 13,00% vol, mentre l’acidità totale minima deve essere di 4,5 g/l, con un estratto non riduttore minimo di 22,0 g/l.

Per il Barolo Riserva DOCG, il vino deve avere un titolo alcolometrico volumico totale minimo del 13,00% vol, con «menzione geografica aggiuntiva» e «vigna»: 13,00% vol, mentre l’acidità totale minima deve essere di 4,5 g/l, con un estratto non riduttore minimo di 22,0 g/l.

Per il Barbaresco DOCG, il vino deve avere un titolo alcolometrico volumico totale minimo del 12,50% vol, con «menzione geografica aggiuntiva» e «vigna»: 12,50% vol, mentre l’acidità totale minima deve essere di 4,5 g/l, con un estratto non riduttore minimo di 22,0 g/l.

Per il Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, il vino deve avere un titolo alcolometrico volumico totale minimo al 12,50% vol, con «menzione geografica aggiuntiva» e «vigna»: 12,50% vol, mentre l’acidità totale minima deve essere di 4,5 g/l, con un estratto non riduttore minimo di 22,0 g/l.

INVECCHIAMENTO

Per il Barolo DOCG, i vini devono essere sottoposti a un periodo minimo di invecchiamento di 38 mesi, di cui 18 mesi in legno.

Per il Barolo Riserva DOCG, i vini devono essere sottoposti a un periodo minimo di invecchiamento di 62 mesi, di cui 18 mesi in legno.

Per il Barbaresco DOCG, i vini devono essere sottoposti a un periodo minimo di invecchiamento di 26 mesi, di cui 9 mesi in legno.

Per il Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, i vini devono essere sottoposti a un periodo minimo di invecchiamento di 50 mesi, di cui 9 mesi in legno.

Quali altre differenze avreste aggiunto a questo articolo?

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