Come si mangia da: “1978” (Roma) di Valerio Braschi (Masterchef 6)
A mio modesto parere, nelle 10 edizioni di Masterchef Italia finora disputate, la sesta è stata una delle più interessanti e ha visto come vincitore uno dei cuochi con maggiore talento del talent show culinario: Valerio Braschi.
D’altronde, non è da tutti vincere una competizione del genere appena diciottenne. E così, dopo un po’ di gavetta e di globetrotting in cerca dell’apprendimento di cucine più esotiche della nostra, il giovane Valerio dal novembre 2019 è chef e uno dei proprietari del ristorante “1978“, localizzato a Via Zara 27 (Roma, accanto a Villa Torlonia), con 24 coperti, cucina a vista e la sua vena “pazza” trasferita nei suoi piatti.
Come sempre, qualora ci sia disponibilità economica e totale flessibilità con il palato, il mio consiglio è quello di optare per il menù degustazione, sia per minimizzare i costi e massimizzare la quantità di portate, sia per lasciare spazio a ciò che chi cucina vuole esprimere. E anche questa volta è andata così, optando per il menù da 10 portate da €100. Da qui in poi comincerò a descrivere la mia esperienza, ma qualora preferiste “osservare” piuttosto che “leggere”, ecco qui il vlog del pranzo da 1978.
Prima di iniziare, però, non lo vuoi fare un aperitivo? Ed allora decidiamo di andare in direzione Torino, optando per i due Vermouth in carta di Giulio Cocchi: uno bianco (l’Americano Cocchi) e uno ambrato, più dolciastro (il Vermouth Storico di Torino Cocchi). Il Vermouth è un vino aromatizzato, ottenuti da una base di vino con l’aggiunta di alcol, zucchero e aromi. Per la mia “inclinazione filosofica”, questo genere di vini si sposa più adeguatamente per il fine pasto. Ma ad Asti in particolare l’Americano Cocchi fa rima con aperitivo e non oserei mai differire con questa tradizione: la scelta è stata (ovviamente) azzeccata.
A seguire, dopo questo duopolio torinese, lo Chef invia al tavolo due amuse-bouche. Il primo è un gambero con foglia di ficoide glaciale, salsa Sriracha e sale Maldon. Io sono una persona che predilige maggiormente i cibi cotti, ma quando si parla di pesci (anzi, per essere più precisi, di crostacei) così deliziosi, il crudo è la dimensione più idonea per assaporare al meglio queste delizie marittime. La combinazione di sapori dato dal vegetale della foglia, dalla sapidità di un cristallo salino come quello Maldon e la salsa piccante hanno fatto fede al significato dell’amuse-bouche, facendo divertire le mie papille gustative.
Il secondo invece è stato un trittico altrettanto sfizioso: a destra un bignè ripieno di cavolfiore bruciato e ricoperto con una glassatura di pollo e fave di cacao. A sinistra invece una meringa salata con formaggio, bottarga di muggine e uova di salmone. Quel che si vede al centro invece era un delizioso brodo caldo di prosciutto crudo. I tre elementi sono stati tutti divertenti da gustare, ma una menzione speciale la devo dare al brodo di prosciutto, che con il suo gusto marcato e la sua temperatura ottimale ha quasi attivato delle sinapsi che hanno richiamato ancor di più le vere portate del menù che ci attendeva.
Per accompagnare le varie portate nel menù, dopo aver sfogliato le varie proposte per le bevande alcoliche, abbiamo optato per un mini abbinamento composto da tre calici di vino a €35 (che il sommelier ci avrebbe portato all’incirca ogni due portate, avendo scelto tutti prodotti “secchi”, quindi non vini da accompagnare ai dolci). Il primo è stato il campano “Vigna Cicogna” 2019 di Benito Ferrara, un Greco di Tufo DOCG pluripremiato (nel 2018 con le 4 Viti AIS, l’anno successivo con 94/100 di Veronelli e 92/100 di James Suckling) caratterizzato da una piacevole nota salina.
Il secondo invece è stato un rinfrescante spumante lombardo (dell’Oltrepò Pavese) Metodo Classico di Monsupello: il Nature, composto al 90% da Pinot Nero e al 10% da Chardonnay, con sosta sui lieviti per 36 mesi, è stato uno spumante davvero gradito, cremoso, fresco e minerale.
L’ultima etichetta scelta dal sommelier è stata un rosso toscano del 2018: “Le Cupole” di Tenuta Trinoro, con un taglio bordolese composto da Cabernet Sauvignon (6%), Cabernet Franc (58%), Merlot (32%) e Petit Verdot (4%). Nonostante i soli tre anni alle spalle, la tannicità del vino è risultata docile, per nulla invasiva, con note olfattive di spezie e frutta rossa matura.
Ma passiamo ora al menù vero e proprio, battezzato da una coppia che difficilmente viene proposta: ricciola e piccione, accompagnati da uova di pesce volante, maionese alla Sriracha e cuore di tonno marinato sotto sale. Come già sottolineato, le portate fredde e crude non sono la mia più grande passione, ma due carni così diverse e così caratteristiche, servite quasi a modo di sashimi, sono risultate ben equilibrate tra di loro, impreziosite anche dalla grassezza della maionese che ha svolto il ruolo di legante tra le due proteine.
Insieme al primo round, il cameriere ha portato anche l’offerta di panificazione del menù: un cestino di pane classico e pane integrale, grissini di Pecorino e semi di sesamo, cubetti di focaccia e due burri, uno al tartufo e uno all’aringa affumicata. Tralasciamo il fatto che adoro alla follia i vari tipi di focaccia, soprattutto come questa, alta e dall’impasto morbido. Ciò che apprezzo sempre quando lo trovo servito a tavola è il burro. Può essere considerato qualcosa di molto banale, dato che comunque lo si può trovare in un qualunque supermercato o discount, ma è molto apprezzabile trovare cuochi che lavorano il burro per aromatizzarlo con sapori del tutto diversi dai classici, per di più portati alla temperatura ideale – non troppo freddo da affaticare il modo in cui lo si spalma, ma neanche troppo caldo da liquefarlo. Nota a parte per i grissini. Non avevano la consistenza che ci si aspetta, assomigliavano quasi più ad un biscotto, ma il sapore del Pecorino li ha resi veramente godibili.
Passiamo alla seconda portata, dove arrivano i primi fuochi d’artificio. Come i fan hardcore di Masterchef sapranno, Valerio in finale portò tra le sue preparazioni una spuma di plancton. Penso che la prima reazione che coglie più o meno tutti quando sentono nella stessa frase “piatto” e “plancton” sia: cosa?! Ebbene sì: il plancton può essere adoperato anche in cucina. Ovvio, non parliamo della stessa “preparazione” di cui si cibano le balene nelle profondità degli oceani. In Europa, ad esempio, la spagnola Fitoplancton Marino S.L. ha ricreato le condizioni ideali per coltivare le microalghe direttamente internamente alla sua azienda, riuscendo a produrre plancton liofilizzato. Lo Chef, in questo caso, produce una spuma di plancton su cui adagia una capasanta con fave di cacao e sale Maldon.
È stata sicuramente un’esperienza singolare quella del plancton, dato che è un ingrediente molto raro in cucina, poco utilizzato per il momento e, nell’immaginario collettivo, meramente un organismo marittimo usato per sfamare i più grandi cetacei del pianeta. Non so se sia stata la mano dello chef ad ammorbidirlo perché era per l’appunto la prima volta che assaggiavo questo prodotto; tuttavia ho trovato il gusto meno “marino” rispetto a quanto mi aspettassi. Faccio un esempio: fino a pochi anni fa non avevo mai assaggiato ostriche. Ogni qualvolta che ne ho mangiato una, c’è sempre stato un minimo comune denominatore: il deciso gusto di mare dovuto anche alla sua acqua. Un assaggio e mi pareva di essere in acqua a nuotare sul litorale tirrenico. Non è stato così per il plancton ma ciò non toglie che sia stato un piatto spumeggiante, grazie anche alla cottura impeccabile della capasanta.
Proseguendo, passiamo subito al vero e proprio piatto della discordia dello Chef, un piatto che ha alzato un polverone tale ad inizio 2021 che avrebbe potuto facilmente ricoprire un campo di calcio: la lasagna liquida! Apriti cielo, la critica (e non solo) gastronomica italiana non si è di certo tirata indietro quando ad inizio anno è uscita la notizia che vedeva lo chef “profanare”, a detta di molti, un piatto sacro della tradizione italiana come la lasagna. E cosa c’è di così eretico in questo piatto? La sua forma e la sua presentazione. Infatti lo chef ha deciso di proporre la sua idea concettuale di lasagna dato che, in età adolescenziale, dopo le classiche seratone del sabato sera, capitava che la mattina (in cui la sveglia ovviamente non c’era) il suo modo di lavarsi i denti fosse fatto immediatamente con una lasagna, un piatto che probabilmente non manca [soprattutto] nei pranzi domenicali di nessuna famiglia.
Ecco come lo chef presenta la “Lasagna 2021“: uno spazzolino a forma di pasta all’uovo, un “dentifricio” che, nel suo tradizionale tubetto, contiene invece una lasagna liquida, mentre il collutorio è sostituito da un brodo caldo di Parmigiano Reggiano (fatto da un mix di pezzi di 60 e di 180 mesi). Come è facilmente intuibile, questi ingredienti gridano “sapore” e “gusto” solo nominandoli. È ovvio che dovrà scendere l’Inferno in terra prima che io preferisca questa lasagna liquida a quella solida, massiccia e sostanziosa delle nostre nonne. Tuttavia lo Chef ha vinto due volte con questo piatto: ha creato un piatto originale e divertente, che permette al cliente di divertirsi mentre pasteggia – un qualcosa che non capita tutti i giorni – ed è riuscito a far parlare di sè in modo incredibile. Il diktat “ogni pubblicità è buona pubblicità” non mi trova e non mi troverà mai d’accordo, ma lui non ha fatto nulla di male: per molti sarà un insulto, ma secondo il mio modestissimo parere lo Chef ha semplicemente ricreato in modo ludico un piatto fortemente tradizionale, e sì: era buonissimo.
Altro piatto che ha fatto storcere il naso a più di una persona è la quarta portata del menù: a sinistra il piatto (che funziona esclusivamente da decorazione) raffigura una foto del suo paesino natio, ovvero Santarcangelo (in Romagna), mentre a destra troviamo la versione liquida della piadina di Santarcangelo: salsiccia, peperone e cipolla bianca di Santarcangelo. Perché è controverso? Ovviamente per aver scomposto la piadina, ma anche e soprattutto per il modo in cui va mangiato questo piatto. Come? Leccandolo! Ebbene sì, le istruzioni di uso non prevedono posate, ma solo la propria lingua. E lo ammetto: io ho gustato il piatto esclusivamente con la fetta di pane del cestino arrivato ad inizio pasto…
Ma è con la quinta portata che Valerio alza davvero l’asticella, sia nel gusto che nella complessità. Sebbene a prima vista possa sembrare un semplice piatto di spaghetti, in realtà c’è molto di più dietro questi spaghetti. Per descriverlo al meglio penso che lo chef stesso sia la persona più adatta, pertanto lo cito letteralmente nel suo post sui social in cui descrive il suo Spaghetto blood-targa: “il concetto di sangue è troppo spesso un concetto che spaventa. Del resto, il sangue e ció che davvero da sapore alla carne. Il nostro spaghetto (di Pastificio dei Campi, n.d.a.) è risottato in acqua e fondo di manzo, mantecato con burro di Normandia e rifinito con la nostra polvere di Sangue di manzo. Il sangue, unito alle transglutaminasi cuoce sottovuoto in forno ad acqua Orved a 87 gradi, successivamente viene fatto marinare nel sale ed infine essiccato”. Come ci ha spiegato Valerio stesso quando è venuto a fare gli onori di casa a fine servizio, per ricavare 300ml di questo sangue gli sono necessari circa 6 chili di carne. Pensate quindi a quanta preparazione e materia prima siano necessari affinché si possa realizzare questo piatto, che aveva un gusto incredibile: una leggera nota ferrosa, ma anche sapido e lievemente grasso.
Con la sesta portata restiamo in tema carboidrati, ma questa volta ad arrivare nel piatto è il Bottone Italia-Spagna, con salsa di chorizo, vellutata di bietoline e brodo di pollo. La pasta ripiena è sempre una delizia per il palato e ho particolarmente apprezzato il fatto di aver unito in modo sapiente una verdura come le bietoline (in forma di vellutata) e due proteine così diverse tra di loro come il pollo (in forma di brodo) e soprattutto il chorizo, il tipico insaccato piccante della Penisola Iberica (e dell’America Latina).
A seguire, la settima portata è stata un altro tributo dello Chef alle sue origini, principalmente a sua nonna: il Ragù di Nonna Elsa infatti è la versione del ragù nel suo Comune d’origine, composto da trito di salsiccia, concentrato di pomodoro, guanciale e aglio, accompagnato da una fetta di pane per poter fare la migliore scarpetta dell’anno.
Ecco però, a mio parere, il piatto forte e il mio preferito dell’intero meù: il Glacier 51. Sono rimasto straordinariamente sorpreso (e contento) di poter gustare questo piatto perché parliamo di un pesce incredibilmente raro da trovare, paragonabile per importanza e fama alla versione ittica del manzo Wagyu. Questo pesce infatti è pescato una sola volta all’anno a 2.000 metri di profondità, esclusivamente nell’Emisfero Australe – un pelino lontano dal Mar Mediterraneo. Ad impreziosire il pesce, anche se la sua bontà lo rende autosufficiente, è stata aggiunta una salsa di mandorle dolci e amare che ha semplicemente perfezionato il piatto, rendendolo ancora più raffinato. Come potete vedere, la pezzatura è effimera, ma giustificata dalla rarità dell’ingrediente e anche dalla sua bontà. Spero in futuro di riuscire ad avere altre opportunità di gustare questo pesce, ma nel frattempo complimenti a Valerio per averlo inserito nel suo menù e per essere stato bravo a rendergli giustizia, cuocendolo e accompagnandolo egregiamente.
Ci avviciniamo al novantesimo minuto e qui entra in gioco il pre-dessert: l’Errore Perfetto 2.0, una zuppa di gelato al pepe Sansho con gel al bergamotto e caviale di muggine, accompagnato da uno shot di Sake allo Yuzu. Il Sake, come il vino, è una bevanda fermentata (in questo caso di riso invece che di uva) e questo è aromatizzato con il famoso agrume giapponese – un altro prodotto che desideravo tanto assaggiare e che si è integrato alla perfezione con il piatto – ma l’influenza nipponica è stata arricchita dallo stesso gelato, dato che il pepe Sancho è tipico del Giappone. La sua leggere piccantezza è stata integrata perfettamente dalla nota agrumata del gel al bergamotto, mentre ammetto di non aver trovato una perfetta sintonia con il caviale di muggine, ma che gli ha comunque consegnato un ulteriore dimensione grazie alla sua sapidità. Nel complesso è stato un piatto che ho apprezzato, al gusto ma anche nella sua preparazione.
A concludere il menù è stato però il mio secondo piatto preferito della degustazione, il Kuri to Miso. Questo delizioso dessert è una bavarese di castagne con gelato di miso, meringa sbriciolata e mou. Ho apprezzato dal primo all’ultimo boccone questa pietanza, capace di offrirmi insieme un mix di gusti e consistenze che si sposavano alla perfezione tra di loro.
A conclusione del tutto, e non prevista inizialmente, è stata la piccola pasticceria. Confesso di essermi perso la descrizione perché lo Chef era appena arrivato al tavolo e mi sono distratto. Tuttavia il dolcetto che pare un’arachide non è un’arachide ma ha esattamente il sapore dell’arachide: veramente particolare!
Prima della “nota dolente” decidiamo di cercare di smaltire un po’ con un bel caffè. Tra le scelte era possibile selezionare – tra i caffè – il “Bar” (90% Arabica e 10% Robusta provenienti da Brasile, Costa Rica e Colombia), il “Robusto” (fatto al 40% da Arabica e al 60% da Robusta selezionati da Vietnam, Brasile e Indonesia) e lo “Sweet” (100% Arabica composto da Etiopia ‘Sidano Gr 2’, Cuba ‘Serrano’ ed El Salvador ‘Pacamara’). Io ho optato proprio per lo Sweet.
Eccoci giunti al capolinea e, devo ammetterlo, il conto portato in una porta che è un’esatta replica di quella d’ingresso del ristorante, mi ha strappato un sorriso – e mi ha fatto capire quanto lo Chef non lasci nulla al caso e che tutti i dettagli, per lui, fanno la differenza. Tra acqua (Filette), aperitivo, menù degustazione e abbinamenti al calice, il conto è stato di €147 a testa. Conto esoso? Tantissimo se paragonato ad un tradizionale pasto in pizzeria. Neanche così tanto se messo accanto a quello di un 2 Stelle Michelin. La verità, come sempre, sta nel mezzo, e il conto va relazionato rispetto all’esperienza, alla location, alle materie prime adoperate, alla complessità dei piatti, a ciò che si è bevuto e mangiato e a tutto il “contorno”. Per me è una cifra che rispecchia correttamente ciò che abbiamo vissuto, un’esperienza che se dovesse capitarmi di riprovare in futuro non mi dispiacerebbe affatto. Non devo essere certo io quello che deve fare le previsioni sulla carriera di Valerio, ma è innegabile che se continua su questa strada (ricordiamolo, ha solo 23 anni!) il suo futuro è più che radioso.
Per cui, che dire? Grazie, Chef!
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