Tokaji – Panoramica completa sul più famoso vino dolce ungherese

Per chi non studia o non è appassionato di enogastronomia, sapere che l’Ungheria è patria di uno dei più famosi vini dolci del mondo potrebbe rappresentare una grande sorpresa, ma è proprio questa la realtà dei fatti. La nazione magiara, infatti, ospita la famosissima zona vitivinicola del Tokaji, un vino botritizzato che è probabilmente tra i più apprezzati di sempre.

Fortuna vuole che, come la vicina Austria, anche l’Ungheria abbia una grandissima tradizionale dolciaria, il che rende gli abbinamenti con i vari Tokaji un vero paradiso terrestre. Probabilmente il dessert ungherese più famoso è la Dobos Cake, una torta multi-strato al cioccolato fatta di pasta biscotto e crema al burro al cioccolato, coperta da una spirale di spicchi di pasta rivestiti da un caramello croccante.

Una menzione speciale va fatta per il Zserbó (o Gerbeaud Slice), una torta a 4 strati di pasta farciti con marmellata di albicocca, zucchero e noci con copertura di cioccolato. L’abbinamento cioccolato – marmellata di albicocca potrebbero farla considerare una versione ungherese della Sacher Torte, ma parliamo ovviamente di dolci completamente diversi.

C’è poi la Kürtőskalács (o “Camino Dolce”),  una pasta brioche arrotolata lungo un rullo, con sopra una spennellata di burro, che viene cotta in forno e infine guarnita con zucchero, cannella o semi di papavero.

Un altro dolce che potrebbe risvegliare anche le mummie è la Torta Esterházy, composta da una crema al burro aromatizzata con rum o vaniglia e inserita tra quattro strati di pasta di mandorle tostate, ricoperta poi da una glassa.

Mi fermo qui ma il bello è che potrei andare avanti con molti altri dolci. Sì, per chi ama addolcirsi il palato, l’Ungheria dovrebbe essere una meta molto ambita… Ma torniamo al vino, che è l’argomento principale di questo articolo.

Nella regione del Tokaji la principale fetta di mercato, a livello di diffusione di vitigni, se la aggiudica il Furmint (o Mosler), un vitigno a bacca bianca autoctono adoperato per la produzione di vini secchi ma anche e soprattutto per la produzione dei Tokaji dolci, insieme all’uva Hárslevelü e al Muscat Lunel – un “cugino” del nostrano Moscato Bianco e del transalpino Muscat à Petits Grains. Tra questi vitigni, il Furmint è quello che conferisce acidità e alcolicità, motivo per il quale si presta perfettamente anche alla produzione di vini bianchi secchi molto freschi. A contribuire invece alla fragranza e alla morbidezza del prodotto finale ci pensa l’Harslevelu, sebbene sia importante notare che non sia una delle uve che vengono attaccate dalla muffa nobile.

Si perché è proprio questo uno degli elementi più caratteristici della produzione del Tokaji: è un vino muffato/botritizzato, ovvero un vino prodotto con uve che vengono attaccate dalla Botrytis Cinerea. Conosciuta anche come muffa nobile, la Botrytis non è altro che un fungo – o per essere più precisi, un patogeno necrotrofico delle piante – che può portare ad un danno irreversibile della vite. Tuttavia, in condizioni climatiche ben precise e con la mano sapiente dei vignaioli, può svilupparsi all’interno degli acini, facendo sì che si consumino sostanze idrocarbonate e minerali, provocando profonde modificazioni nella composizione chimica del mosto e portando eventualmente alla realizzazione di vini dolci tra i più apprezzati al mondo.

Ma tornando alla produzione del Tokaji: solitamente i grappoli d’uva vengono raccolti nel mese di novembre e il blend di Furmint, Hárslevelü e Muscat creerano il vino base che verrà poi conservato per un anno in botti da 137 litri. Solo successivamente tale vino verrà integrato dal mosto ottenuto da uve botritizzate (quindi attaccate dalla muffa nobile) e poi sarà sottoposto ad una seconda fermentazione.

La quantità di tale mosto, nella produzione di questo vino, gioca un ruolo fondamentale. Infatti la classificazione dei Tokaji si delinea in bse alle puttonyos aggiunte. No, ovviamente non è una parolaccia… Puttonyos si riferisce alle gerle che vengono prese come un’unità di misura che corrispondo all’equivalente di 25 kg di pasta di uva aszù (ovvero appassita e attaccata dalla Botrytis). Andiamo a vedere la classificazione delle varie tipologie di Tokaji:

TOKAJI ASZÙ 3 PUTTONYOS

Sono vini con un residuo zuccherino minimo di 60 grammi per litro e un estratto di 30 grammi per litro dedotti/esclusi gli zuccheri, con una maturazione di almeno 3 anni. Al naso ci sarà un trionfo di sentori fruttati e floreali, con una nota di ossidazione in alcuni casi.

TOKAJI ASZÙ 4 PUTTONYOS

Sono vini con un residuo zuccherino minimo di 90 grammi per litro e un estratto di 35 grammi per litro dedotti/esclusi gli zuccheri, con una maturazione di almeno 4 anni. Qui il bouquet dei profumi già diventa più complesso: frutta come albicocca, uva passa e mela cotta, ma anche una dolcissima nota di caramello, caramella mou e dei sentori minerali.

TOKAJI ASZÙ 5 PUTTONYOS

Sono vini con un residuo zuccherino minimo di 120 grammi per litro e un estratto di 40 grammi per litro dedotti/esclusi gli zuccheri, con una maturazione di almeno 5 anni. Qui, rispetto alla versione con 4 puttonyos, si possono avvertire in certe occasioni note di smalto e lacca, quindi profumi eterei.

TOKAJI ASZÙ 6 PUTTONYOS

Sono vini con un residuo zuccherino minimo di 150 grammi per litro e un estratto di 45 grammi per litro dedotti/esclusi gli zuccheri, con una maturazione di almeno 6 anni. Non posso ancora dare una testimonianza diretta perché non l’ho mai bevuto, ma nei testi accademici è possibile trovare una grande diversificazione di diversi sentori, con note di ossidazione che sono quasi una costante per questi vini.

TOKAJI ASZÙ ESZENCIA

Sono vini con un residuo zuccherino minimo di 250 grammi per litro e un estratto di 50 grammi per litro dedotti/esclusi gli zuccheri, con una maturazione di circa 10 anni. Il non plus ultra dei Tokaji. Non è un vino per tutti i palati e, data la difficoltà nella sua produzione e il lungo invecchiamento, si trova sul mercato a prezzi incredibili.

TOKAJI SZAMORODNI

Questa è una versione diversa del Tokaji ed è ottenuta da uve che non sono attaccate dalla muffa nobile. Viene prodotto in grandi quantità solo nell’eventualità di problemi di sviluppo della Botrytis Cinerea. C’è anche la versione “Late Harvest” (vendemmia tardiva).

TOKAJI MUSKOTALY

Si chiama “Tokaji” ma spartisce molto poco con gli altri vini: ha poca dolcezza e si fa solo con Muscat di Frontignan e Moscato Giallo.

TOKAJI FORDITAS

Ha un grado zuccherino che si aggira sui 115 grammi per litro. In questa tipologia viene aggiunto del vino nuovo alla pasta di acini aszù dopo pressatura. In sostanza si tratta di un metodo tipo “ripasso”.

Esistono altre tipologie non inserite in questo articolo? Fatemelo sapere nei commenti!

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