Come si mangia da: “Eggs” (Roma)
Quando un ristorante si chiama “Eggs”, è ovvio che il protagonista indiscusso di questa
offerta gastronomica sarà l’uovo.
Sono uno che ama provare sempre nuovi ristoranti, ma questo è uno dei miei locali preferiti e infatti ci sono andato diverse volte – l’ultima poco prima che iniziasse l’era del coprifuoco, più o meno ad ottobre 2020 – ed è situato in una delle mie zone preferite in tutta Roma, ovvero Trastevere. Nato ufficialmente l’8 marzo del 2017 dalla collaborazione di Puntarella Rossa e di Zum
Tiramisù (Zucchero, Uova e Mascarpone), un delizioso laboratorio artigianale vocato per la
creazione di varianti di tiramisù davvero eccezionali, dal 20 maggio 2018 Eggs si è
trasferito in via Natale del Grande 52, dove tuttora risiede.
A guidare la brigata in cucina si trova la Chef Barbara Agosti. Il grande pubblico potrebbe conoscerla dato che nell’ottava edizione di Masterchef Italia la chef portò nel più famoso talent show culinario d’Italia un suo capolavoro brevettato: la Carbonara da passeggio, su uno stecco come fosse un gelato. Ma di che parliamo?! Per me il paradiso… Piccola ma importantissima parentesi: le uova adoperate sono di Categoria 0 (per chi non conoscesse la codificazione delle uova invito a leggere un mio post sull’argomento), mentre le verdure bio provengono da Bio Farm Orto di Arianna Vulpiani.
Quando metti insieme nella stessa frase “uova” e “Roma”, uno dei piatti che dovrebbero immediatamente venire alla mente è anche uno dei più controversi in Italia: Sua Eccellenza, la Carbonara. Ciò che amo di questo locale è che c’è addirittura la carta delle carbonare. Vero: l’unica vera e tradizionale è quella con guanciale, uova e pecorino, ma la Chef ha saputo ideare delle varianti estremamente interessanti. Una tra quelle che ho assaggiato e che mi è piaciuta moltissimo è la “Rosso Fuoco“, con ‘nduja e stracciatella.
Tra quelle presenti in menù (al netto di eventuali cambiamenti) potrete trovare anche quella “Viola” (con cipolla rossa caramellata), “l’Arancione” fatta con zucca mantovana e mandorle tostate, la “Porpora” con caciocavallo e petto d’anatra, la “Verde” con broccolo romanesco, la “Nera” con tartufo nero, la “Bianca” composta da spaghetti di patate, guanciale, crema di pecorino e uovo cotto a 64°. Sarebbe molto interessante provare anche la versione più atipica: la “Carbonara 1954“, che secondo quanto dichiarato dal ristorante è la prima versione ufficiale di ricetta pubblicata su “La Cucina Italiana”, che prevede un tonnarello fatto con acqua e farina, pancetta rosolata, aglio in camicia, uovo e gruviera. Ovviamente DOVETE provare anche la versione classica.
Facciamo però un paio di passi indietro e torniamo agli antipasti. In questa sezione infatti sarà subito possibile trovare delle piccole chicche che stuzzicheranno la vostra mente e il vostro palato. Una di queste è il “Gioco del Croccante“, composto da una serie di fritti come baccalà in pastella, verdure in pastella, ravioli fritti, crocchette e altro ancora – bisogna anche vedere la stagionalità di alcuni prodotti e l’eventuale cambio di menù.
La più grande prelibatezza, secondo me, che troverete in questo ristorante però è… un piatto di polpette. Sembra banale, quasi riduttivo, ma non sono polpette qualunque. In realtà sono “pallotte cacio e ova”, un piatto tipico della tradizione abruzzese e composto da pane e formaggio – invece delle classiche polpette di carne – coperte da un saporitissimo sugo di pomodoro e pecorino romano. Che bontà… impossibile da descrivere, la cosa migliore da fare è ordinarle e gustarle.
Tra le opzioni più famose e simpatiche da provare quando si va da “Eggs” va sicuramente annoverata la degustazione di 6 preparazioni diverse di uova, portate direttamente nel cartone da 6 porta uova e all’interno dei gusci delle uova stesse. Nella prima fila in alto, da sinistra a destra, si trovano: la varietà “Trasparenza” (gelatina di Martini bianco, perle di Yuzu e tuorlo di quaglia), la varietà “San Baylon” (con zabaione salato e tartufo nero) e la variante “Tonnato” (tonno, alici, limone, nocciole tostate e tuorlo sodo). Nella fila in basso invece, questa volta da destra a sinistra, si trovano: “Il Gualtiero” (caviale, patate ed erba cipollina), il “Non Uovo” (con burrata e uova di salmone) e il “Craccato” (crema di pecorino, zucchine marinate con mentuccia e bottarga di gallina).
A conclusione di pasto il mio consiglio è quello di provare il tiramisù del locale, prodotto in collaborazione con il laboratorio ZUM e fatto esclusivamente con ingredienti bio e artigianali.
Menzione particolare va fatta anche per il kit da acquistare e portare a casa per fare una carbonara a regola d’arte: mezze maniche del Pastificio Mancini, uova bio “Le Carbonelle” di Arianna Vulpiani, guanciale di Campofelice, un mix di Pecorino Romano e Grana Padano (sì, non è tradizionale al 100%, ma ricordiamoci che il Pecorino è un formaggio estremamente salato e un’eccessiva sapidità non è sempre gradita da tutti) e pepe nero del Madagascar.
Da “Eggs” è stata fatta probabilmente la mia “ultima cena” (fa sorridere anche solo scriverlo…) in un ristorante prima della chiusura serale imposta dal coprifuoco. L’auspicio principale è di poter riuscire a tornare a cenare tranquillamente in un ristorante il prima possibile perché ne abbiamo bisogno, noi commensali ma soprattutto i ristoratori.
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