Come si mangia da: “Fourghetti” (Bologna)
DISCLAIMER: questa recensione è frutto di un’esperienza avvenuta due anni fa, nella primavera del 2019 (quando allora il proprietario era ancora lo Chef Bruno Barbieri). La pubblico solo adesso perché, sistemando i miei archivi fotografici, sono fortunatamente riuscito a reperire queste foto, insieme ad alcuni appunti che presi quella sera. Da questo momento in poi l’articolo prosegue con la recensione del locale.
Non si può certamente rimanere impassibili quando si va a cenare in un bistrot creato da uno degli chef più premiata e apprezzati del panorama italiano: Chef Bruno Barbieri. Fino al 2019, prima dell’assegnazione delle tre stelle ad Enrico Bartolini per il suo ristorante milanese all’interno del MUDEC, lo chef bolognese era il cuoco più stellato d’Italia, con ben 7 stelle guadagnate durante la sua prestigiosa carriera.
In questo bistrot, lo Chef Barbieri aveva voluto creare un “ristorante-salotto” e l’ambiente rispecchiava in pieno il suo stile culinario: minimal ma diretto, complesso ed elegante. Il locale, a meno che non abbia cambiato indiriozzo, è situato a Via Augusto Murri 71, da metà 2016 casa del bistrot aperto dallo Chef Barbieri, che nell’aprile del 2020 ha deciso di cedere a quello che è diventato l’Executive Chef del locale, ovvero Erik Lavacchielli.
Partiamo dalle basi, ovvero dalle bevande. Al tavolo, dopo aver richiesto un’acqua oligominerale, mi viene portata come acqua una bottiglia di Memory’s Water, l’Acqua delle Stelle, una bottiglia frutto della partnership tra lo Chef Barbieri e lo stilista (marchigiano) Alessandro Marchesi con la sua Memory’s Ltd. Passando ai vini invece la scelta è ben più ardua, data l’ampia selezione di etichette presenti in carta, ma resa più semplice dalla sommelier Lisa Foletti, tanto elegante quanto preparata e abile nel consigliarmi una bollicina sofisticata come un Blanquette de Limoux AOC Brut della Maison Guinot. Non credo che lei lavori più nel locale, ma ancora oggi nutro un piacevolissimo ricordo in merito alla sua preparazione e ai suoi consigli per accompagnare il mio pasto.
Ad accompagnare invece le varie portate, un cesto di pane contenente grissini, pane sciapo, pane carasau e pane integrale.
Ora, come consiglio sempre (tenendo però in considerazione il budget a disposizione e il gusto personale), la migliore scelta da fare è quella di prendere il menù degustazione. In questo modo si ammortizzano un po’ i costi (prendere alla carta quel che è incluso nel menù degustazione conviene molto meno da un punto di vista economico) e permette allo/a chef di far vedere davvero la sua mano, di assaporare quelle che lui/lei ritiene siano i pasti più congeniali ad un percorso dinamico e divertente; così, anche allora, feci. Pertanto scelsi “Un’idea dello Chef“, che comprendeva tre portate e un petit dessert a scelta del cuoco, per un prezzo di €60. Qualora avessi voluto anche inserire la proposta di abbinamento vinicolo, mi sarebbero stati portati 4 calici diversi per altri €35, ma ho preferito optare per un singolo calice, venuto €7.
Come inizio della serata, lo chef ha inviato al mio tavolo un amuse-buche che consisteva in un’insalata di galletto con carote e salsa al curry. Ricordo che questo stuzzichino lo apprezzai particolarmente per la sua delicatezza unita ad un piacevole gusto donato dalla salsa di curry, speziata al punto giusto – diciamo che mi è capitato in passato di trovare pietanze in cui il curry era l’unico “dittatore” del piatto e in cui copriva tutto quanto.
Come prima vera portata del percorso lo chef ha optato per un piatto di carciofi ripassati al pancotto con animelle di vitello, doratine di scamorza affumicata fritta e olio tiepido alle acciughe. Fu un piatto che mi piacque molto ma soprattutto rappresentò la mia prima esperienza con le animelle. Per chi non conosce questa tipologia di carne, si tratta di una parte biancastra e spugnosa che si trova nelle interiora dei giovani bovini (ma anche dei suini). A livello anatomico possono essere paragonate al timo umano, un organo linfoepiteliale equivalente ad una ghiandola. Negli ultimi anni, grazie alla grande diffusione mediatica della cucina, molti chef (famosi o meno) inseriscono sempre di più nei loro menù tagli di carne meno “nobili” come le animelle. Va detto comunque che sono anni che molti chef pluripremiati si battono per dare nuova vita alle frattaglie, sia per ridurre lo spreco del cibo sia per dare risalto ad una cucina che una volta era più povera. Se avessi acquistato questo piatto alla carta, allora sarebbe venuto €15.
Come secondo round del percorso è arrivato ciò che bramo più di tutti quando vado a mangiare fuori: la pasta. Per l’occasione lo Chef Barbieri ha ideato un piatto di tortelloni di ricotta, con burro alle erbe, cipolla al barbecue, guanciale, salsa Amatriciana e polvere di ricotta forte. Quando si parla di pasta, forse sono un po’ di parte: per farmi dire “non mi è piaciuta”, un vero disastro deve essere fatto. Per esempio la pasta deve essere dura come l’acciaio, o in caso contrario eccessivamente cotta, oppure il condimento non si è legato bene e quindi si crea un “mappazzone” per restare in tema. Ricordo che questo piatto me lo divorai, poi la pasta ripiena è sempre un piacere immenso, data l’esplosione di gusto che si prova quando si addenta. Ammetto che forse mi sarebbe piaciuto tantissimo riuscire ad assaggiare i suoi classici ma immancabili tortellini bolognesi in brodo: sarebbe stato altrettanto eccitante ma con questa bontà non c’era nulla di cui lamentarsi. Se fosse stato preso al tempo alla carta, questa pasta sarebbe costata € 16.
La terza [e principale] portata del menù ha previsto un piatto di cocotte d’agnello e uova di quaglia, con melanzane arrosto affumicate, cuori di carciofi, patate e cipolle. La cottura della carne era sublime, poi quella d’agnello è tanto sublime quanto delicata; un’eccessiva cottura la renderebbe davvero stoppacciosa, ma ovviamente non è stato questo il caso. L’accompagnamento dei vari ortaggi, verdure e delle uova di quaglia ha arricchito ulteriormente il piatto, rendendolo strutturato ma anche “semplice” da consumare, data la freschezza dei vari ingredienti adoperati. Alla carta questo piatto sarebbe costato €22.
Come fine pasto invece mi è stato servito un piatto di bigné fritti e caramellati con zeste di arancia candita e salsa inglese. Ricordo con gusto questo piacevolissimo dolce. Solitamente la frittura non la prediligo per i dessert, anzi: i bigné li preferisco sempre mangiare in modo tradizionale. Tuttavia lo chef è stato abile nel conferire una frittura tutto sommato delicata, arricchita dalla salsa inglese e resa più fresca dalle scorze d’arancia. Qualora avessi ordinato questo dolce direttamente dal menù, il costo sarebbe stato di €15.
Andiamo alle conclusioni: il pasto è stato più che piacevole! Il locale rispecchia la sua natura, ovvero quella di un bistrot. Per chi non conoscesse perfettamente le differenze tra un ristorante e un bistrot, questa parola francese dovrebbe derivare da “Bistroquet” e la possiamo considerare come l’equivalente delle nostre osterie. Negli anni si è evoluto in un tipo di locale che potrebbe quasi essere considerato un “piccolo caffè”, dove quindi ci si può fermare a fare una piacevole sosta per mangiare dei piatti relativamente veloci da realizzare. Non mi fa impazzire questa definizione perché, nel contesto sbagliato, potrebbe essere interpretato come un fast food e ovviamente non è questo il caso.
Ho avuto l’opportunità di mangiare piatti elaborati ma con ingredienti semplici, e questo è un qualcosa che io apprezzo sempre. In più, il minimo comune denominatore che ricerco sempre nelle mie esperienze – il Gusto – l’ho trovato eccome. Non ricordo precisamente quanto costarono acqua e pane, tuttavia per i quattro piatti del menù degustazione (più l’amuse-bouche) e il calice di spumante francese spesi €67 – se avessi preso gli stessi piatti alla carta il cibo sarebbe costato €68 invece di €60. Ammetto che quando uscii dal locale non ero sazio, dato che le portate erano 4 e le dimensioni erano abbastanza ridotte, pertanto non me ne andai soddisfatto al 100%, ma questa è una considerazione puramente soggettiva.
La realtà dei fatti è che, se mi ritrovassi a Bologna e qualcuno mi dicesse che vorrebbe andare da Fourghetti, a me non dispiacerebbe quindi ritornerei. Allora c’era ancora la mano dello Chef Barbieri (e si è vista eccome nei piatti): forse sarebbe ancora più curioso tornare per vedere quali cambiamenti sono stati apportati nelle proposte gastronomiche, ma questo si vedrà in futuro.
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