Vino Novello – definizione, normativa e differenze con il Beaujolais nouveau
Ci siamo: quando arriva il 30 ottobre, da quel giorno in poi è possibile trovare in commercio i vini novelli. Prima sarebbe stato impossibile, o quantomeno illegale, ma forse è meglio fare un passo indietro e cominciare dall’inizio.
MACERAZIONE CARBONICA
Un vino novello è semplicemente un vino ottenuto con una particolare tecnica di vinificazione che si chiama macerazione carbonica. Si tratta di un procedimento applicato prima della vera vinificazione, in cui i grappoli interi vengono messi in vasche chiuse ermeticamente che sono sature di anidride carbonica e vengono lasciati per un periodo che può oscillare tra i 5 ed i 10 giorni ad una temperatura vicina ai 30° C, in modo da favorire la produzione di glicerina. Al fine di evitare la possibile ossidazione del vino viene aggiunta anche la SO2, ovvero l’anidride solforosa. Grazie a questa procedura, in cui non c’è ossigeno, si verifica una parziale fermentazione intracellulare che non “scomoda” neanche l’intervento dei lieviti (in questa fase, almeno), dato che portano le cellule dell’uva al metabolismo anaerobio e ad un alto consumo di acido malico. A seguire ci sarà la fermentazione alcolica che sarà molto rapida (massimo 4 giorni). Il risultato sarà un vino dai colori vivaci, con un grande bouquet floreale e fruttati, ma anche con spiccati sentori vinosi. La componente tannica sarà delicata ma anche non adatta per l’invecchiamento; per tale motivo il consiglio è quello di consumarlo entro 6 mesi massimo.
NORMATIVA
A livello normativo, i vini novelli trovano la loro “ricetta” nel disciplinare dal D.M. 13 Luglio 1999, successivamente aggiornato dall’allegato 7 del DM 13 Agosto 2012, che ne stabilisce anche le caratteristiche commerciali. Infatti, secondo il disciplinare, “la data di immissione al consumo, qualora non sia espressamente previsto nei disciplinari di produzione di cui al comma 1 un termine successivo, è fissata alle ore 0h01 del 30 ottobre dell’annata di produzione delle uve dalle quali i vini di cui trattasi derivano” – prima la data prescelta era il 6 novembre – mentre devono essere “confezionati entro il 31 dicembre dell’annata relativa alla vendemmia da cui derivano le uve utilizzate per la loro produzione”. Inoltre devono avere una designazione DOP o IGP, riferito sia ai vini fermi che a quelli frizzanti. In merito alla gradazione alcolica, il titolo alcolometrico minimo deve corrispondere all’11% in volume, mentre il limite massimo di zuccheri riduttori residui è di 10 g/l.
PROCESSO E VITIGNI
Un altro aspetto molto importante da considerare per i vini novelli in Italia è il fatto che devono essere ottenuti per almeno il 40% mediante il processo di fermentazione con macerazione carbonica. In precedenza era il 30%, mentre per la percentuale restante potevano venire assemblati vini anche di annate precedenti fino al 15% del totale della massa, ma poi questa variante è stata rimossa. Per quanto concerne i vitigni, in Italia c’è un’ampia scelta da cui attingere le uve prescelte per il vino novello: ben 60
Beaujolais nouveau
La massa minima sottoposta alla macerazione carbonica è uno degli aspetti che lo differenziano invece dalla sua controparte francese, ovvero il Beaujolais nouveau. Si tratta appunto del vino novello francese (ed originale), prodotto nella regione del Beaujolais (vicino a Lione) e per il quale viene utilizzato esclusivamente il vitigno Gamay. A differenza del procedimento italiano, per il Beaujolais nouveau la macerazione carbonica viene applicata a tutte le uve (di Gamay) utilizzate. Inoltre, a livello di immissione sul mercato, tale vino francese viene commercializzato a partire dal terzo giovedì di novembre.
ABBINAMENTI
Concludiamo questa mini guida con dei consigli su come abbinarlo. Parliamo di un vino che in teoria è solo rosso, dalla moderata alcolicità, con una componente tannica non troppo esuberante, con poca acidità e una piacevole leggerezza di corpo, con spiccati sentori di frutti rossi. L’abbinamento più tradizionale è con le castagne, magari al forno. Non può certamente accompagnare piatti troppo strutturati, ma se proprio si volesse fare un’eccezione, potrebbe rivelarsi una scelta molto interessante quella di abbinarlo ad un risotto castagne e taleggio – sebbene il vino in questo caso sarebbe una comparsa piuttosto che un co-protagonista. In alternativa si può anche pensare di abbinarlo con dei finger food fritti o a base di carne durante un aperitivo.
Diciamo che con questa mini guida mi auspico di essere riuscito ad elencare tutti i punti salienti dell’argomento vino novello, ma qualora non foste appagati vi rimando al sito del Ministero delle Politiche Agricole, Alimentari e Forestali per scaricare e leggere il disciplinare di produzione: https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/5367
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