Vini dolci – 10 bottiglie consigliate
Finalmente… dopo anni a leggere i vari articoli di ogni blogger e testata, finalmente anche io posso cimentarmi nel consiglio dei vini dolci per le feste!
Sono contentissimo perché se è vero che il vino è una delle mie passioni principali, il “sottoinsieme” dei vini dolci rappresenta senza alcun dubbio il mio “hobby” preferito: scovarli, studiarli ma soprattutto gustarli. In questi anni ho scoperto con immenso piacere una piccolissima parte del mondo magico che ingloba queste bevande tanto nobili quanto bistrattate in molte occasioni.
POCA OFFERTA…
Non è una passione semplice. Tralasciando l’ovvio fatto che comunque parliamo di bevande con un importante residuo zuccherino, i vini dolci sono delle vere e proprie nicchie dato che il mercato – o quantomeno la domanda generale – non li ricerca così tanto. Anche in gran parte dei ristoranti sarà difficile trovare una vasta gamma di offerte che possano anche solo lontanamente rivaleggiare con la quantità di bianchi, rossi e spumanti offerti sulla stessa carta. Per non parlare di alcuni bar e locali che li inseriscono direttamente con la parola PASSITO, magari sotto la voce “AMARI E LIQUORI”… In loro sfavore giocano il costo elevato, la piccola quantità che si è soliti bere – infatti molte bottiglie vengono prodotte solo e soltanto con la versione “demi-bouteille” da 375 millilitri – e la poca voglia sia dei consumatori di assaggiare queste meraviglie, sia di molti ristoratori di sorvolare su questa categoria. Anche i produttori, ogni tanto, si concentrano troppo sulla dolcezza e sorvolano sull’acidità, una componente fondamentale per la buona riuscita di un buon vino dolce, dato che un’eccessiva dolcezza porterebbe un qualsiasi consumatore a stancarsi già dopo il primo assaggio.
Va anche detto che durante le feste natalizie, quando le bottiglie vengono stappate in ogni angolo dell’Italia, ci potrebbero essere due tipi di bollicine da tenere in casa: un gran bel spumante Metodo Classico con un dosaggio zuccherino minimo (Pas Dosé, Brut o Extra Brut) per abbracciare il nuovo anno, e una bella bollicina dolce per accompagnare pandori, panettoni e qualunque altro tipo di leccornia che conclude il pasto a tavola.
SPUMANTI SECCHI CON I DOLCI? MEGLIO DI NO
Non è il massimo infatti accompagnare una fetta di pandoro con un calice di Prosecco, di Trento DOC, di Franciacorta DOCG o di qualunque altro spumante secco. La regola con i dolci è relativamente semplice: vanno accompagnati da vini dolci. Ed è proprio qui che voglio dare il mio contributo. Ci sono etichette che vengono immancabilmente consigliate ogni anno da ogni articolo, e per carità, ci può anche stare. Ma io vorrei fare un piccolo passo in avanti e consigliare qualche prodotto che magari molti neofiti non hanno neanche mai lontanamente sentito. D’altronde questo blog non è verticale sul vino, pertanto il mio pubblico non è composto esclusivamente da amanti del vino e quindi cerco sempre di creare articoli che possano risultare piacevoli e utili sia per i lettori alle prime armi sia per coloro che comunque hanno una comprovata esperienza e bagaglio di competenze.
A tal proposito vorrei consigliare 10 etichette diverse, tutte rigorosamente Made in Italy, che spaziano dai vini dolci fermi a quelli spumanti o frizzanti, in cui vengono incluse etichette più “entry level” ma anche prodotti molto più strutturati per chi vuole osare. Pertanto direi di chiudere l’introduzione e di cominciare a fare sul serio!
“MELODIA” di FANGAREGGI
Regione: Emilia Romagna
Tipologia: vino dolce frizzante bianco
Acquistabile su Callmewine a €6,65 (bottiglia da 0,75L): https://www.callmewine.com/melodia-fangareggi-P12879.htm
Comincerei da un vino che ha uno straordinario rapporto qualità-prezzo: circa €7 per un vino dolce frizzante emiliano che è un degno compare per brindare con panettoni e pandori. Leggero, dolce ma affatto stucchevole grazie ad un’acidità che bilancia in modo egregio il prodotto, con una grandissima aromaticità conferita dai due vitigni utilizzati per l’occasione (Moscato di Canelli e Malvasia Bianca di Candia), si tratta davvero di un compagno umile ma efficace.
BRACHETTO D’ACQUI di COCCHI
Regione: Piemonte
Tipologia: vino dolce spumante rosso
Acquistabile su Vino75 a €9,90 (bottiglia da 0,75L): https://www.vino75.com/dettaglio/brachetto-d-acqui-docg-cocchi.html
Il Piemonte, si sa, è terra di grandi rossi. Il Barolo spicca su tutti, ma ad onor di cronaca sono molteplici le tipologie di vino che possono essere considerate dei simboli di questa meravigliosa terra. Mi permetto di dire che anche il Brachetto d’Acqui rientra tra i principali alfieri della viticoltura piemontese. Parliamo di un vino dolce, rosso, spumantizzato (con il Metodo Martinotti o Charmat, quindi con seconda rifermentazione che si svolge in autoclave) che può essere gustato tranquillamente in solitaria ma che, secondo il mio modestissimo parere, da il meglio di sé accanto a dolci a base di frutta rossa. Volete esagerare? Andate sul sito di Albertengo (altro piemontese DOC) e ordinate il suo panettone artigianale al Brachetto d’Acqui – proprio quello di Giulio Cocchi. Inception chi?
“LA MONTECCHIA” di CONTE EMO CAPODILISTA
Regione: Veneto
Tipologia: vino dolce spumante bianco
Acquistabile su Italvinus a 9,80 (bottiglia da 0,75L): https://www.italvinus.it/it/vino/emo-capodilista-fior-d-arancio-spumante/?adws=1
Avete presente quando la domenica a pranzo andate al ristorante per festeggiare il compleanno di figli, nipoti, figli di amici e compagnia bella, e ovviamente a concludere il pasto arriva la fantomatica torta in cui anche le candele sono praticamente fatte da zucchero? Bene, in quei casi un vino come questo è semplicemente perfetto. Aromatico, leggero, vivace, spumante e dolce ma non troppo. Il Moscato Giallo nella zona dei Colli Euganei esprime grandi prodotti nella versione passita ma è doveroso dire che anche nella sua versione spumantizzata (Metodo Martinotti/Charmat anche questo) siamo su livelli altissimi.
“AUREUM” 2016 di BANINO
Regione: Lombardia
Tipologia: vino dolce fermo bianco
Acquistabile su Tannico a €16 (bottiglia da 0,375L): https://www.tannico.it/collina-del-milanese-passito-igt-aureum-2016-banino-0-375l.html
In Lombardia il mondo vinicolo è famoso soprattutto per le pregiate bollicine di Franciacorta, per i grandi rossi della Valtellina, per le meraviglie dell’Oltrepò Pavese e per altro ancora. Spesso e volentieri però i vini dolci vengono messi un po’ in secondo piano in questa regione, ma ci sono ovviamente delle piacevoli eccezioni (un’altra verrà discussa tra poco). Tra queste va annoverato l’Aureum di Banino, un delizioso passito di Malvasia Bianca di Candia in purezza che, con il suo incantevole colore dorato, si guadagna alla grande il suo nome d’arte.
“MUFFO” 2016 di SERGIO MOTTURA
Regione: Lazio
Tipologia: vino dolce fermo bianco
Acquistabile su Vino75 a €29,50 invece che €43 (bottiglia da 0,375L): https://www.vino75.com/dettaglio/lazio-igt-grechetto-passito-muffo-sergio-mottura-2016.html
Lo ammetto. Qui la componente regionale influisce parecchio. Ma dopotutto, essendo figlio dei Castelli Romani, non potevo certo tenere fuori il Lazio da questa lista. Siamo nella parte alta del Lazio, al confine con l’Umbria, e qui il maestro Sergio Mottura sa il fatto suo quando si parla di Grechetto. È proprio il suo “Muffo”, uno dei punti di forza dell’azienda, a confermare questa tesi. Io do per scontato che anche dei neofiti stiano leggendo questo articolo e quindi lo specifico: questo è un vino muffato, ovvero un vino prodotto da uve che sono state attaccate dalla Botrytis Cinerea, un fungo aerobico che viene anche chiamato “muffa nobile” dato che, nelle giuste condizioni climatiche e con la mano sapiente del produttore può creare vini dolci che sono semplicemente paradisiaci.
“REGINA DI FELICITÀ” di CASCINA BARICCHI
Regione: Piemonte
Tipologia: vino dolce spumante bianco
Acquistabile su Enoteche Piave a €18 invece di €20,40 (bottiglia da 0,75L): https://www.enotechepiave.it/cascina-baricchi-moscato-regina-di-felicita
In Piemonte, in particolare nell’Astigiano, il Moscato Bianco è il re incontrastato tra le tante varietà e tipologie di questa pregiata uva aromatica. Esso viene utilizzato per la produzione di due perle enologiche nostrane come l’Asti Spumante DOCG e il Moscato d’Asti DOCG. Ma in questo caso voglio proporre un Moscato Bianco un po’ sui generis. Cascina Baricchi infatti produce un delizioso Moscato spumante, Metodo Martinotti (la stessa tecnica usata per produrre il Prosecco, per intenderci) e sullo stile degli icewine canadesi e gli eiswein tedeschi/austriaci: vendemmia invernale tra dicembre e gennaio, con raccolta notturna tra le 4:30 e le 8:00 del mattino quando la temperatura scende sotto i -5°C con uve del tutto ghiacciate.
KIO 2016 di CAMBRIA
Regione: Sicilia
Tipologia: vino dolce fermo rosso
Acquistabile su Callmewine a €26,90 (bottiglia da 0,375L): https://www.callmewine.com/nocera-passito-kio-cambria-2016-P22533.htm
Vero, la Sicilia è terra di grandi vini dolci, soprattutto quelli a base di Moscato (come quelli di Siracusa e di Noto) o il fantomatico Passito di Pantelleria, eppure c’è anche un piacevolissimo vino rosso dolce che vale la pena esplorare: il “Kio” di Cambria. Prodotto con Nocera al 100%, un vitigno autoctono coltivato sul versante nord-orientale della Trinacria, si tratta di un vino che può accompagnare egregiamente dei dolci al cucchiaio a base di cioccolato, o anche una bella tavoletta fondente.
DOMUS AUREA 2017 di FERRUCCI
Regione: Emilia Romagna
Tipologia: vino dolce fermo bianco
Acquistabile su Xtrawine a €18,91 invece di €20,68 (bottiglia da 0,50L): https://www.xtrawine.com/it/vini/ferrucci-albana-passito-domus-aurea-0-5l-2017/p20384
Se c’è un’uva che si presta alla grande all’appassimento, quella è probabilmente l’Albana (e i suoi vari cloni). Si tratta di una delle uve principali della Romagna ed in questo caso si tratta della varietà Albana della Serra – coltivate a Serra di Castelbolognese, in provincia di Ravenna. L’annata 2017 ha ottenuto le 4 Viti della Guida Vitae, la guida annuale dei migliori vini stilata dall’Associazione Italiana Sommelier (e 4 rappresenta il massimo punteggio). È un vino che vi colpirà in ogni aspetto: con il suo colore oro antico, con il suo profumo di miele e uva passa, e soprattutto con il suo gusto dolce, persistente e delicato.
MOSCATO DI SCANZO 2015 di BIAVA
Regione: Lombardia
Tipologia: vino dolce fermo rosso
Acquistabile su Italvinus a €54,90 (bottiglia da 0,50L): https://www.italvinus.it/it/vino/biava-moscato-di-scanzo/?adws=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8dH-BRD_ARIsAC24umZ-WKvNJGKKNWNQGfOW0Nd5jbfMqKdotW7noXhEp3H4pfWFx6PR1tsaAlhGEALw_wcB
Parlavamo della Lombardia e di come non sempre i vini dolci lì non siano sempre propriamente valorizzati? Vi basterà andare a Scanzorosciate, nella Valcalepio (provincia di Bergamo) e troverete uno dei migliori vini dolci d’Italia – e non solo. Parliamo della denominazione di origine controllata e garantita più piccola d’Italia, con una superficie coltivata a livello nazionale vicina a circa 50 ettari. Non è propriamente un vino da neofiti: la sua struttura e il suo gusto lo rendono tra i principali esponenti di quei vini che il compianto Luigi Veronelli definiva “da meditazione”, ma se proprio volete togliervi uno sfizio a tavola durante le feste, il colore rosso rubino di questo gioiello è proprio ciò che cercate.
SCIACCHETRÀ CINQUE TERRE RISERVA 2015 di POSSA
Regione: Liguria
Tipologia: vino dolce fermo bianco
Acquistabile su Triple A a €67,50 (bottiglia da 0,375L): https://www.triplea.it/it/vini/possa/cinque-terre-sciacchetrà-riserva-989.html
Prima premessa: vale lo stesso discorso del Moscato di Scanzo, ossia parliamo di un vino davvero complesso, strutturato, non propriamente adatto a chi il vino lo beve solo, senza provare minimamente a conoscerlo e a farsi “sedurre”. Seconda premessa: qui parliamo di una delle varietà di vino dolce più importanti d’Italia, non c’è dubbio alcuno. È una chicca prodotta nella zona delle Cinque Terre, viticoltura non eroica ma estrema, uvaggio composto da Bosco e Rossese Bianco. Potrei procedere con la descrizione organolettica ma non avrebbe senso: qui la parola andrebbe lasciata a questo gioiello. È caro, soprattutto per essere una mezza bottiglia? Oggettivamente sì. Ma ogni euro speso e ogni goccia gustata valgono il prezzo del biglietto, ve lo garantisco. Provare per credere…
La quantità di altri vini dolci che avrei potuto menzionare è abissale: i vari Recioto (della Valpolicella, di Soave e di Gambellara), le miriadi di tipologie di Vin Santo, il Passito di Pantelleria, il Moscato Rosa, il Vino Santo trentino, e così via… ahimé lo spazio era limitato a 10 etichette. Ho cercato di concentrarmi su prodotti a buon mercato, magari non nel radar di molti in alcuni casi, con due piacevolissime eccezioni come lo Sciacchetrà e il Moscato di Scanzo. Lo scopo era quello di consigliare qualche etichetta che fosse meno conosciuta al grande pubblico, facilmente acquistabile e che non comportasse (nella maggior parte dei casi) un esborso eccessivo. Spero di essere riuscito a stimolare la curiosità dei lettori e perché no: a dare l’input necessario a molti per acquistare un degno vino dolce per le festività. Se così fosse, mi farebbe molto piacere ricevere le vostre opinioni. Nel frattempo, e mai come quest’anno l’auspicio è davvero forte: passate delle belle e serene feste!
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