Spumanti francesi Metodo Classico – Lista di alternative allo Champagne AOC

È vero: se si vuole bere una bollicina francese Metodo Classico (quindi con seconda rifermentazione in bottiglia) la prima scelta che viene in mente è l’immancabile Champagne, un vero gioiello della tradizione transalpina. Grazie ad una perfetta combinazione tra qualità del prodotto e capacità inestimabile di raccontare la sua storia e la sua personalità unica, lo Champagne è per molti la prima scelta di spumante per festeggiare.

C’è però un qualcosa di importante da tenere in considerazione: lo Champagne AOC è un prodotto che può essere chiamato tale solo se rispetta il suo rigido disciplinare di produzione e, ovviamente, solo se viene prodotto esclusivamente nella sua zona delimitata.

Tale “egemonia” dello Champagne ha comunque degli effetti collaterali. Perché in Francia non c’è solo la regione dello Champagne per produrre spumanti Metodo Classico; anzi… Oltralpe, infatti, sono diverse le prestigiose regioni produttrici di vino e molte di esse possono annoverare tra le loro file dei grandi spumanti Méthode Champenoise.

CREMANT

Tra le principali tipologie possiamo debuttare senz’altro con i Crémant. Fino alla metà degli Anni 90, precisamente il 31 agosto 1994, questo termine si riferiva agli spumanti elaborati in modo da sviluppare meno anidride carbonica, portando quindi ad una spuma più delicata. Attenzione perché si riferiva ad ogni spumante Metodo Classico prodotto nella Comunità Europea – il che comprendeva anche gli Champagne, così come i prodotti nostrani – che avessero una pressione minore in bottiglia, pari a circa 4,5 atmosfere.

Se proprio volessimo trovare delle analogie con le nostre tecniche, si potrebbe paragonare l’allora Crémant a quello che è ancora oggi il Franciacorta Satèn, un prodotto che rispetto alle altre tipologie di Franciacorta DOCG (sempre Metodo Classico, uno dei principali spumanti italiani), oltre ad un uvaggio puramente a bacca bianca, prevede una pressione in bottiglia inferiore alle 5 atmosfere.

Ad oggi, in Francia, esistono 8 tipologie di Crémant protette da Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC), una denominazione francese paragonabile alle nostre DOC e DOCG. Il termine Crémant” può essere impiegato soltanto per vini spumanti di qualità bianchi o rosati a denominazione di origine protetta prodotto in una delle regioni previste nella AOC e ottenuti con la seconda rifermentazione in bottiglia, a cui deve seguire un affinamento su lieviti di minimo 9 mesi; l’uscita in commercio invece deve avvenire dopo 12 mesi dal tirage. Le condizioni imposte dal disciplinare – regolamento CE n° 607/2009 della Commissione Europea del 14/07/2009 – sono le seguenti: le uve devono essere vendemmiate a mano; il vino deve essere prodotto con mosto ottenuto dalla pressatura di grappoli interi o diraspati; la quantità di mosto ottenuto non deve superare 100 litri per 150 chili di uva; il tenore massimo di anidride solforosa non deve essere superiore ai 150 mg/l, mentre il tenore di zuccheri deve essere inferiore a 50 g/l.

È un prodotto che si distingue dai normali vini spumante per la pressione atmosferica contenuta nella bottiglia che deve essere inferiore alle 5 atmosfere, portando quindi ad un vino con un contenuto di CO2 inferiore ai tradizionali Champagne e spumanti, caratterizzato da un perlage e una spuma più soffici. L’ultima considerazione è che nella maggior parte dei casi, i Crémant sono quasi tutti millesimati.

Andiamo a vedere insieme quali sono le 8 tipologie diverse.

CRÉMANT D’ALSACE AOC

Qui parliamo, a mio modesto parere, di una delle due regioni francesi produttrici di vino più sottovalutate in assoluto, ma anche della principale produttrice di Crémant. La varietà dell’Alsazia infatti è la più prodotta e commercializzata, con una vendita annuale che supera abbondantemente 30 milioni di bottiglie. A livello di superficie vitata ci dovrebbero essere circa 15 mila ettari, localizzati su un’altitudine che oscilla tra i 200 ed i 400 metri sopra il livello del mare. I terreni di questa zona conferiscono una piacevolissima freschezza e mineralità ai vini prodotti. La denominazione nasce nel 1976 e i vitigni ammessi alla loro produzione sono: Auxerrois, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir e Pinot Gris. Solitamente la vinificazione avviene in bianco ma è possibile – seppur in rare occasioni – trovare prodotti Rosé.

CRÉMANT DE BORDEAUX AOC

Bordeaux: un vero e proprio simbolo del vino francese di qualità. Qui non ci sono soltanto i grandi rossi, derivati dai famosi vitigni di taglio bordolese (come il Cabernet Sauvignon, il Merlot e il Cabernet Franc, per esempio), ma anche dei vini dolci che oserei definire leggendari. Il Sauternes, che i vini dolci piacciano o meno, è un vino da provare almeno una volta nella vita. Ma tornando ai vitigni a bacca nera, la loro importanza e diffusione fa sì che la maggior parte della produzione dei Crémant de Bordeaux siano rosé. Non è una tipologia di vino molto diffusa in questa preziosa regione, pertanto la produzione è contenuta e limitata. Se si parla di vitigni a bacca bianca possiamo trovare Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon e Ugni Blanc.

CRÉMANT DE JURA AOC

Con la Jura siamo in “estremo oriente” per quanto concerne la Francia, al confine con la Svizzera. Il clima è fresco e i vigneti sorgono tra i 300 e i 450 metri sopra il livello del mare. Questa zona è famosa particolarmente per il Vin Jaune, un vino bianco ossidativo prodotto con Savagnin e servito nella tradizionale bottiglia da 0,62 litri, e per il Vin de Paille, un vino bianco dolce che letteralmente significa “vino di paglia”: l’uvaggio può comprendere Savagnin ma anche Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc e altri ancora. Il Crémant invece nasce, o quantomeno viene riconosciuta, nel 1995 e può essere prodotto con Savagnin, Chardonnay e Pinot Gris per quanto riguarda i vitigni a bacca bianca, mentre per produrre la versione Rosé si possono adoperare Pinot Noir, Poulsard e Trousseau

CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE AOC

È vero che i gusti personali e le opinioni sono soggette alle tante sfaccettature che possono comporre un determinato pensiero, ma quando si parla di Borgogna si parla delle migliori espressioni mondiali di Pinot Noir e Chardonnay. Punto. Questo concetto è riferito esclusivamente ai vini fermi prodotti in questa vera e propria culla della viticultura, ma qui la produzione di Crémant è decisamente importante. I Crèmant de Bourgogne hanno un affinamento minimo di 9 mesi per la versione base, ma l’UPEC (Union des Producteurs et Elaborateurs de Crémant de Bourgogne) ha successivamente elaborato ed approvato un nuovo sistema di classificazione per questa categoria di spumanti. Sono state aggiunte due tipologie: l’Eminent, che prevede un affinamento di almeno 24 mesi sui lieviti, e il Grand Eminent. Qui la tipologia è più complessa e ha un disciplinare più esteso. L’affinamento sui lieviti prevede minimo 3 anni (36 mesi) e, se per i Blanc de Blancs e i Blanc de Noirs si possono usare solo Chardonnay e Pinot Noir, per i rosati è prevista l’aggiunta del Gamay al massimo per un 20%. A livello di residuo zuccherino non si possono superare i 15 grammi per litro, mentre il titolo alcolometrico minimo è pari al 10%. Per i vitigni da poter utilizzare, la scelta spazia da quelli a bacca nera a quelli a bacca bianca. Nella prima categoria troviamo Gamay e Pinot Noir; nella seconda ci sono Pinot Gris, Aligoté, Chardonnay, Melon, Sacy e Pinot Blanc.

CRÉMANT DE SAVOIE AOC

Con la regione di Savoia, una zona prevalentemente montuosa, siamo a sud della Jura e i vigneti possono arrivare ad un’altitudine fino ai 500 metri s.l.m. Qui obiettivamente il clima è molto rigido, in stile continentale, durante l’inverno, mentre al contrario le estati sono abbastanza calde. A livello cronologico parliamo dell’ultima AOC di Crémant approvata, precisamente nel 2014. Le uve usate sono Chardonnay, Jacquère, Altesse, Pinot Noir e Poulsard (questi ultimi per realizzare i rosé). Attenzione perché, secondo il disciplinare di produzione, lo Chardonnay non può essere impiegato in percentuale superiore al 40% della produzione totale.

CRÉMANT DE LOIRE AOC

Parliamo di un’altra grande denominazione, sia in termini qualitativi che in termini quantitativi. Infatti si parla di una produzione annuale di Crémant della Loira che oscilla tra i 16 ed i 17 milioni di bottiglie. Una particolarità di questo nobile prodotto è la sua modalità di stoccaggio, il quale avviene spesso e volentieri in cave di tufo. A livello di uvaggio i vitigni utilizzati sono Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon e Cabernet Franc.

CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX AOC

La AOC nasce il 21 agosto 1990 e, rispetto alla sua “cugina” Blanquette de Limoux (che vedremo tra poco) prevede un disciplinare decisamente rigido e viene prodotto nella regione vitivinicola del Roussillon (ad ovest della Provenza). La sua produzione consente l’utilizzo di Chardonnay come vitigno principale, ma può essere integrato con Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir e/o Mauzac. Chardonnay e Chenin Blanc non possono comporre più del 90% dell’uvaggio e lo Chenin stesso deve essere presente minimo al 20% (massimo al 40%). Gli altri due – ovvero Pinot Noir e Mauzac, che siano solitari o insieme non possono rappresentare più del 20% della composizione totale.

CRÉMANT DE DIE AOC

Si tratta di una delle più piccole produzioni di Crémant in assoluto, una denominazione che ha ottenuto la AOC a partire dal 1993. È una tipologia di spumante quasi “riscoperta” solo negli ultimi 10/15 anni e vede come principale protagonista la Clairette, un vitigno che nasce all’inizio come uva per vino da tavola ma poi, grazie soprattutto alle sue potenzialità espresse in forma spumantizzata, è stata notevolmente rivalutata grazie anche alla sua ottima struttura acida. Si nella Valle del Rodano e, apparentemente, viene spumantizzato in bottiglia anche con le vinacce. La Clairette deve essere presente almeno al 55% ma può essere integrata dal Muscat à Petits Grains tra il 5 e il 10% e dall’Aligoté Blanc (fino al 10% e non oltre).

ALTRE DENOMINAZIONI: LA BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX AOC

Qui stiamo probabilmente parlando (ma non si ha certezza) dello spumante francese più antico in assoluto – anche più dello Champagne. La zona è quella di Languedoc – Roussillon (Linguadoca), nel meridione francese e localizzata vicino al confine con la Spagna. Per cercare le origini di questo famoso spumante dobbiamo tornare indietro nel 1531, precisamente nell’abbazia benedettina di Saint-Hilaire, dove i monaci si accorsero che il vino che avevano imbottigliato era frizzante. Tale fenomeno li portò a ricercare e studiare maggiormente cosa avesse portato il loro vino a quello stato, ma praticamente avevano ideato – senza neanche saperlo ancora – la Blanquette de Limoux. La sua vera casa è proprio Limoux, una cittadina del dipartimento dell’Aude nella regione Occitania. L’uva principale per produrre questa chicca è il Mauzac – minimo al 90% – ma possono essere aggiunti Chardonnay e Chenin Blanc.

ALTRE DENOMINAZIONI: IL LIMOUX  MÉTHODE ANCESTRALE 

Ebbene sì: a Limoux ci dovrebbe essere una terza variante di uno spumante Metodo Classico dopo il Crémant e la Blanquette. Il Metodo Ancestrale prevede l’utilizzo esclusivo di Mauzac come vitigno e con rifermentazione in bottiglia senza aggiunta di zuccheri, adoperando unicamente quelli residui dopo la prima fermentazione.

ALTRE DENOMINAZIONI: IL VIN DE SAVOIE MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE

Tra le varie denominazioni riportate fino ad ora, questa è quella su cui ho potuto trovare meno materiale online. A dirla tutta, l’ho scovata casualmente durante lo shopping pre-natalizio su Tannico. Ho notato questo prodotto dal nome sconosciuto fino a quel giorno e, dato l’uvaggio che mi intrigava (Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Chardonnay e Ugni Blanc) e il prezzo contenuto (€14,50) ho deciso di acquistarlo a scatola chiusa. Se ci fosse qualcuno più ferrato di me sull’argomento e mi riuscisse a far sapere se effettivamente questa è una denominazione a sé, lo/a invito a contattarmi perché vorrei approfondire l’argomento ed eventualmente correggere l’articolo.

ALTRE DENOMINAZIONI: BELGIO E LUSSEMBURGO

Nota extra. Per quanto riguarda i Crémant, ma uscendo dai confini francesi, esistono anche la versione Crémant de Luxembourg DOP e il Crémant de Wallonie DOP. Data la vicinanza geografica sia alla Svizzera che alla Germania e all’Alsazia francese, i vitigni impiegati per quello del Lussemburgo sono Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir e Pinot Gris. Per quello della Vallonia, una regione all’interno del Belgio, non ho trovato molte informazioni, se non il fatto che sia un prodotto DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta, un marchio comune in tutta l’Europa) e che i vitigni ammessi siano 4: Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Meunier e Chardonnay.

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    Permalink

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    Permalink

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    Permalink

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    Permalink

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    Permalink

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    Rispondi
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    Permalink

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    Permalink

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