Pepe: storia, proprietà e 10 tipologie diverse
“Il re delle spezie”: è così che in molti definiscono il pepe, ed in effetti per quanto concerne il sottoscritto è la spezia per eccellenza. Il suo nome scientifico è Piper Nigrum, una pianta appartenente alla famiglia delle Piperacee, e può contare più di 700 varietà diverse, sebbene solo una piccola parte venga utilizzata tra i fornelli.
La pianta dovrebbe essere originaria del continente asiatico, precisamente della zona del Malabar, una regione situata lungo la costa sud-occidentale indiana, ma è possibile trovarla anche nella zona meridionale dello stato. In seguito si è estesa nello Sri Lanka, in Cina, in Indocina, in Indonesia e nelle Filippine, sconfinando poi sia in America latina (soprattutto in Brasile) che in Africa. Si tratta di una pianta rampicante sempreverde, capace di raggiungere un’altezza di 4-5 metri e solitamente ha una resa in frutti di 1 o 2 kg per pianta; produce rami arrotondati, mentre le foglie sono ovali-lanceolate, coriacee e acuminate. I suoi fiori sono bianchi, profumati e minuti, vengono poi raccolti in infiorescenze, hanno due stami con un ovario che produce un solo ovulo quindi un solo seme.
La sua storia pare sia molto datata, andando indietro ad una commercializzazione in India già 4 millenni fa, volta sia all’uso alimentare che a quello medicinale/terapeutico. Andando più avanti nel tempo è possibile trovare dei grani di pepe anche all’interno di sarcofaghi dei faraoni egizioni, mentre sia per i Greci che soprattutto per i Romani era un “cavallo di Troia” per mercanteggiare con i paesi dell’Estremo Oriente. La verità è che pare sia stato Alessandro Magno, nel IV secolo a.C., a portare la pianta del pepe in Europa – o per meglio dire, furono i suoi soldati. Per secoli il commercio del pepe è stato predominio degli arabi e poi delle repubbliche marinare – soprattutto Venezia, che si assicurò il monopolio del commercio – cui succedettero inglesi, olandesi e portoghesi che progressivamente ottennero il predominio sui commerci e la distribuzione nell’Oceano Indiano.
Insomma: non è una semplice bacca ma una degna compagna per tante ricette. A livello di proprietà, soprattutto per quel che riguarda il pepe nero, favorisce la digestione, è antisettico, stimola il metabolismo, aiuta a lenire le infiammazioni e ha proprietà espettoranti. L’effetto della piperina poi lo rende stimolante, favorendo la secrezione dei succhi gastrici ed utile per l’apparato digerente dato che agevola l’assorbimento dei nutrienti e facilita il processo digestivo. È abbastanza comune trovare delle diete che prevedono l’utilizzo del pepe nero dato che contrasta l’obesità e stimola la termogenesi (l’energia che spende l’organismo per l’assorbimento e l’uso degli alimenti). In misura simile al cioccolato fondente è un antidepressivo naturale dato che stimola la produzione di endorfine.
Ovviamente va sottolineato che queste sono proprietà generali del pepe e legato ad un consumo moderato, ma non tiene conto delle caratteristiche personali di ogni persona, pertanto rimando alla consulenza di dottori e dottoresse in nutrizione per poter essere guidati sui vari benefici che il pepe può portare all’organismo di ognuno. Detto ciò, procediamo nel vedere quali sono 10 tra le tipologie di pepe più diffuse e particolari, ma prima ci tengo a ringraziare per il prezioso contributo di alcune foto il sito “Tutte le spezie del mondo“, che oltre ad essere un’inesauribile fonte di spezie provenienti da tutto il mondo è anche stato scelto dal gotha dell’alta ristorazione, come i ristoranti di Massimiliano Alajmo e Massimo Bottura.
Pepe Nero
Se il pepe è il re delle spezie, il pepe nero è il re dei pepi: non tanto sul gusto (quello è soggettivo), quanto per la diffusione e l’utilizzo in cucina. È universale e versatile, trovabile in qualunque tipo di piatto, dalla pasta alle zuppe passando per i secondi. Il suo biglietto da visita più importante è la piccantezza – non certo ai livelli dei più temuti peperoncini, ma sicuramente non passa inosservato quando si parla di sensazioni trigeminali. I frutti vengono raccolti prima della loro maturazione, ovvero circa 9 mesi dopo la fioritura della pianta; successivamente vengono seccati ad una temperatura moderata con lo scopo di far seccare la cuticola verde che li ricopre. Identificarne una singola varietà è impossibile dato che si può trovare il pepe nero del Madagascar, del Brasile, di Lampong, di Tellicherry, di Penja, del Malabar, di Kampot, di Sarawak (che verrà trattato tra poco) e molti altri ancora.
Pepe Bianco
Il pepe bianco è ottenuto mettendo a bagno il frutto del pepe per una settimana in acqua. Una volta decomposta la polpa resta solo il seme che, dopo l’essiccazione viene utilizzato per il consumo, soprattutto nelle salse chiare, visto che grazie al suo colore non altererebbe la cromaticità del piatto. È comunque meno piccante rispetto a quello nero ma ha anche un aroma più forte degli altri pepi; quasi un sentore come lo stallatico, accentuato dalla fermentazione ma dovuto in particolare alla presenza di oli essenziali, come il p-cresolo, il 4-methilfenolo ed il 3-methylindole. Le versioni più pregiate sono il pepe bianco brasiliano e il Muntoq, prodotto sull’isola di Bangka, Indonesia.
Pepe Verde
Il pepe verde possiede quello che potremmo identificare il colore naturale della cuticola del frutto della pianta del pepe o, in parole povere, il “frutto” ancora non del tutto maturo. Durante la fase di essiccazione è trattato con diossido di zolfo, in modo da mantenere il colore verde del frutto in modo artificiale. A livello gustativo è meno piccante e meno intenso del pepe nero, ma conferisce una maggiore freschezza ai piatti in cui viene aggiunto. Può prestarsi alla grande sia con piatti a base di pesce e che con quelli di carne; in aggiunta si può utilizzare anche per la realizzazione di creme e salse. Il piatto che probabilmente l’ha reso famoso in tutto il mondo è il filetto al pepe verde.
Pepe Rosa
Spoiler alert: il pepe rosa NON è un vero e proprio pepe. Conosciuto anche come “falso pepe”, è una bacca rosata che nasce da un albero sempreverde chiamato Schinus Molle in America Latina. In Messico è conosciuto come Anacahuita, mentre nell’altopiano delle Ande viene chiamato Quechua di Gualeguay. Ha un gusto simile a quello del pepe, ma è di sicuro più delicato e morbido – quasi dolce – con una minore piccantezza. Ottimo compagno di viaggio di piatti a base di pesce, in particolare i carpacci, ma è anche ideale per la preparazione di salse con derivati del latte, come burro, mascarpone o yogurt. Data la sua estetica è anche un ottimo ingrediente per ornare molti piatti.
Pepe di Sichuan
Qui, a livello olfattivo, parliamo probabilmente della mia spezia preferita. Ve lo assicuro: macinare i suoi grani vi darà un esempio perfetto di grande “aromaticità”. Proviene dalla provincia di Sichuan, nella Cina occidentale (che ingloba come grande metropoli Chengdu, capitale della provincia). Attenzione però perché, come il pepe rosa, anche qui non stiamo parlando di un vero e proprio pepe. Il suo nome scientifico è Zanthoxylum Alatum, appartenente alla famiglia delle Rutaceae, ed è una piccola bacca utilizzata come spezia soprattutto in Asia, come Cina, Bhutan, Tibet, Nepal e Giappone. A differenza del pepe nero tradizionale, i semi interni del pepe di Sichuan vengono scartati e si usano solo i gusci che li contengono, che di norma sono tostati e macinati appena prima del loro uso e poi aggiunti all’ultimo momento (a fuoco spento). Ha una piccantezza non troppo marcata con un retrogusto resinato e legnoso ed accompagna egregiamente le marinate di carni, il pesce arrosto e la selvaggina, anche se diversi chef lo usano nei loro dessert a base di frutti di bosco.
Pepe Giamaicano
In questa lista è probabilmente la spezia più grossolana in termini di dimensioni ma, anche qui, non si parla di un vero e proprio pepe. È conosciuto come “pimento” in particolare, “Allspice” (dagli inglesi) o “quattro spezie” dato che il suo sapore ed il suo profilo olfattivo ricordano quattro spezie diverse: in primis la noce moscata (alla cieca chi è alle prime armi potrebbe non riconoscere le differenze tra le due), pep, chiodi di garofano e cannella. Tuttavia il suo nome scientifico è Pimenta Dionica e appartiene alla famiglia delle Myrtacee – originaria della Jamaica. Si può prestare bene ad accompagnare preparazioni che prevadano carni bianche o uova, ma anche qui dei cuochi più “temerari” lo inseriscono nei loro dessert. Curiosità: dal pepe giamaicano in India si ottiene un famoso liquore, ovvero il Pimento Dram.
Pepe della Tasmania
Direttamente dal continente australe, questa spezia ha la particolarità di possedere degli antociani, tra i composti polifenolici più famosi dell’uva e tra i principali responsabili del colore del vino. È molto aromatico ma anche un pelo meno piccante rispetto ad altre varietà più spiccate; inoltre è un frutto della Tasmania lanceolata, un arbusto che cresce nelle foresti pluviali del sud est dell’Australia (soprattutto nell’isola di Tasmania). In cucina lo ha reso famoso uno chef amatissimo dal grande pubblico, Alessandro Borghese. Per la sua iconica cacio e pepe, lo chef ha puntato anche su questa singolare spezia che, aggiunta alla sua crema di cacio, rilascia un colore violaceo che colora ed aromatizza ancora di più questo straordinario primo piatto.
Pepe di Sarawak
Qui ci spostiamo nel sud-est del Pacifico, precisamente nella zona del Borneo (tra Malesia, Indonesia e Brunei). Questo pepe sprigiona delle spiccate note fruttate e fresche, in alcuni casi anche leggermente resinose. È molto aromatico ma non eccede in piccantezza. Piccola curiosità per gli amanti dei primi piatti del Lazio: la carbonara di Roscioli, considerata una delle migliori di Roma, vede una selezione di ingredienti accuratissimi da parte dello chef Nabil Hadj Hassen: tra questi troviamo un blend di pepi, in parte Sarawak ed in parte Cubebe, il prossimo pepe in lista.
Pepe Cubebe
A primo impatto colpisce l’occhio. Il pepe di Cubebe infatti ha un picciolo attaccato alla bacca che lo rende unico nel suo genere. Parliamo di una varietà che trova nel territorio indonesiano (nelle isole di Sumatra e Java) un terreno particolarmente fertile, anche se pure Congo e Sierra Leone si prestano altrettanto bene alla coltivazione di questa spezia. Ha una gradevole aromaticità balsamica, simile al ginepro, il che lo rende compatibile per un accompagnamento con diversi tipi di cacciagione, anche se in nazioni come il Marocco viene usato molto in pasticceria. Ecco un paio di curiosità legate al mondo della letteratura: nella raccolta di “Le mille e una notte” viene citato come un rimedio per l’infertilità, mentre Edgar Rice Burroughs (lo scrittore che ha dato “vita” al personaggio di Tarzan) adorava le sigarette al cubebe e ne fumava tantissime, al punto da attribuire a loro la ragione per la creazione del celebre re della giungla. Nell’aspetto è simile al pepe di Voatsiperifery, prodotto solo in Madagascar e trovabile sia nella versione nera che rossa, mentre quello bianco non ha l’inconfondibile picciolo.
Pepe Lungo
Probabilmente dal punto di vista estetico è il pepe più singolare. Ha una forma cilindrica irregolare, quasi come un pannocchia travestita da pigna. Si usa pestato o macinato finemente. In comune con gli altri pepi non ama particolarmente il calore, pertanto il consiglio è di aggiungerlo a fine cottura in modo da preservarne l’aromaticità. Ha un contenuto di piperina (l’alcaloide presente nel Piper Nigrum) pari al 6%, ma ha comunque una piccantezza inferiore rispetto a quella del classico pepe nero. Viene usato poco in cucina, soprattutto in Europa, sebbene sia una spezia che si sposa bene coi dolci: il ristorante Sintesi (Ariccia, in provincia di Roma) ad esempio lo ha usato per il suo dessert ananas, pepe lungo e gelato alle foglie di fico. Quello in foto è il pepe lungo di Java, ma ne esistono molti altri esemplari: c’è quello del Bengala, quello africano, quello di Selim e quello rosso di Kampot.
Ovviamente questa lista riflette in minima parte le varietà di pepe presenti in tutto il mondo ma spero che questo articolo possa aver contribuito ad avere una visione più completa sul panorama dei pepi. Qual è il vostro preferito?
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