Vini biologici, biodinamici, naturali e vegani: quali sono le differenze
Il mondo dei vini è in continuo…fermento. Praticamente ogni anno si erige una tendenza, per non chiamarla una vera e propria moda, che si espande a macchia d’olio in tutto il Paese.
Dapprima è stato il momento degli orange wine, per poi celebrare gli aperitivi estivi sempre e comunque con un calice di rosè. Tuttavia c’è un movimento che negli ultimi anni si sta affermando sempre di più, che rappresenta una scelta produttiva ben precisa da parte di migliaia di viticoltori, e che trova tra esperti e consumatori molte controversie: quei vini che in maniera quasi goffa possono essere abbreviati all’americana con l’acronimo BNBV: biologici, naturali, biodinamici, vegani.
Sono 4 termini che, volenti o nolenti, vengono nominati sovente nell’ambito vinicolo. Ma c’è chiarezza sulla distinzione tra le varie tipologie? Forse no, o perlomeno non sempre. Questo articolo punta proprio a semplificare le differenze tra i 4 vini.
VINI BIOLOGICI
È imperativo debuttare col fatto che sia negli Stati Uniti che nella Comunità Europea vigono delle legislazioni che definiscono un vino biologico, seppur con alcune differenze tra i due organi. In comune c’è il divieto di erbicidi, fertilizzanti artificiali, OGM e pesticidi chimici. Di contro, per prevenire malattie o difendere le piante dai parassiti, si possono usare solo prodotti naturali come zolfo e [soprattutto] rame, ma anche altri tipi di fertilizzanti organici, prodotti composti da microrganismi ed estratti vegetali. A livello di anidride solforosa (SO2), la questione cambia. Negli Stati Uniti troviamo due categorie di prodotti organici; da un parte il vino biologico che non prevede l’aggiunta di SO2, dall’altra vino fatto con uve biologiche che può prevedere fino a 100mg di anidride solforosa addizionata.
In Europa invece il regolamento pone i limiti di solforosa totale per i vini biologici rossi secchi a massimo 100 mg/L, mentre per i bianchi secchi massimo a 150 mg/L. In poche parole, almeno per quanto concerne la Comunità Europea, un vino biologico può essere definito tale quando, nel vigneto, si producono uve biologiche, coltivate senza l’aiuto di sostanze chimiche di sintesi (concimi, diserbanti, anticrittogamici, insetticidi, pesticidi chimici) e senza l’impiego di OGM, mentre in cantina si esegue la vinificazione utilizzando solo i prodotti enologici e i processi autorizzati dal regolamento 203/2012. Le modalità di vinificazione invece sono approvate dallo Standing Committee on Organic Farming (SCOF), il Comitato permanente per l’agricoltura biologica.
Sicuramente chi è più ferrato di me in materia potrebbe dare una sintesi anche più dettagliata e tecnica ma, con un certo grado di sicurezza, posso asserire che questi siano i punti chiave da elencare quando si parla di vini biologici. Va comunque sottolineato che la cantina ha bisogno di una certificazione di conformità da parte di un ente certificatore. In seguito ogni produttore biologico certificato segue la propria condotta, purché all’interno dei limiti e delle disposizioni imposte dalle normative.
IL VINO BIOLOGICO CONSIGLIATO:
SPUMANTE STEFANAGO ANCESTRALE BRUT 2014 – CASTELLO DI STEFANAGO (LOMBARDIA)
Spumante Metodo Classico (ovvero con seconda rifermentazione in bottiglia) lombardo, un Blanc de Noirs dato che è un vino spumante bianco prodotto da uve a bacca nera, in questo caso un Pinot Nero in purezza. Le uve vengono raccolte a piena maturazione e vinificate con pressatura soffice, evitando contatto con le bucce. La fermentazione si arresta con l’arrivo delle prime temperature fredde, con l’inizio della primavera che stimola il risveglio dei lieviti che lentamente completano la trasformazione degli zuccheri in alcol, i quali fanno partire la seconda fermentazione in bottiglia. Si presta alla grande ad un aperitivo composto da diversi finger food.
VINI BIODINAMICI
E i vini biodinamici? Praticamente condividono le stesse basi di quelli biologici, ma in questa categoria vengono applicati i principi di Rudolf Steiner, teosofo e esoterista austriaco ritenuto responsabile per la nascita dell’euritmia, della medicina antroposofica, della pedagogia steineriana e appunto della biodinamica. Tale agricoltura vede come fondamenta tre pilastri: produrre alimenti di qualità più alta possibile, mantenere la fertilità della terra per liberare le materie nutritive e rendere sane le piante in modo che possano essere resistenti ai parassiti e alle malattie. Anche per questa categoria ad oggi non esiste ancora un riferimento normativo standardizzato; tuttavia una serie di enti ha formulato delle regole che tracciano la via, in particolare in ambito di lavorazione in cantina.
Uno dei principali punti di riferimento è l’associazione “La Renaissance d’Appellation”, nata nel 2008 in Francia, presente anche in Italia, la quale cita: “l’agricoltura biodinamica è un intervento agronomico “solare”: ogni pratica in campagna tende a portare le forze del sole nei processi vitali del terreno e della pianta. Il sistema planetario è un vero e proprio essere vivente, in cui le sfere di azione dei singoli pianeti compenetrano la luce solare che inonda la terra. L’uso dei preparati biodinamici catalizza queste forze”. Nella sua Carta di Qualità poi esclude l’utilizzo di ogni varietà d batteri, enzimi, additivi aromatici e zuccheri, escludendo inoltre i metodi di acidificazione e chiarificazione.
Una vera e propria stella polare per il tipo di viticoltura biodinamica è anche la Demeter, un’associazione privata di produttori biodinamici nata nel 1927 che certifica il proprio marchio (vino Demeter / Biodynamic ®) secondo uno specifico disciplinare. Tra i punti fondamentali ritroviamo l’utilizzo di lieviti esclusivamente indigeni, materiale vegetale come fertilizzante, compost prodotto da concime solido da cortile, lotta antiparassitaria meccanica, rotazioni colturali e pesticidi a base di sostanze minerali e vegetali. Vi è inoltre un’attenzione alle fasi lunari, mentre per quanto concerne il contenuto di solfiti dipende dalla quantità di grammi di zucchero per litro: il massimo consentito è comunque di 110 mg/L, con possibilità di incremento del 20% in particolari condizioni ambientali e climatiche. Per un maggiore approfondimento più dettagliato consiglio questa lettura, impegnativa ma esaustiva.
IL VINO BIODINAMICO CONSIGLIATO:
“MONTEMARINO” 2015 – STEFANO BELOTTI, CASCINA DEGLI ULIVI (PIEMONTE)
Un vino bianco piemontese, prodotto a Novi Ligure da vitigno Cortese, travestito [quasi] da orange wine. Lieviti autoctoni, nessuna filtrazione o chiarificazione ma solo una decantazione naturale, è un vino che potrebbe sorprendere anche i palati più scettici e che merita di essere conservato a modo per permettere un invecchiamento degno di un grande rosso. Al naso dominano le note di frutta secca quali mandorle e nocciole, ma anche sentori di caramello e miele di castagno. Il gusto verrà stupito da un sorso sapido, morbido e persistente. La cantina consiglia di abbinarlo con le melanzane alla parmigiana.
VINI VEGANI
Lo stile di vita vegano, in ambito alimentare, è arcinoto. Si bevono e si mangiano esclusivamente alimenti che non abbiano alcuna origine animale. Questo vuol dire che, oltre a pesci e carne, chi è vegano non può consumare latte, formaggi, burro, uova o altri prodotti simili. E cosa avrebbe a che fare questo coi vini? Semplice: spesso e volentieri tutti i vini prevedono un [piccolo] utilizzo di sostanze d’origine animale.
I vini vegani vietano l’impiego di qualsiasi tipo di ingredienti o di loro derivati ottenuti dall’uccisione diretta di animali, come la colla di pesce o di ossa, o anche la gelatina animale. Allo stesso tempo, esclusivamente per i vini vegani, sono vietati i prodotti di derivati di origine animale, i quali possono essere impiegati come additivi o come coadiuvanti tecnologici: in queste categorie troviamo tra i tanti la lisozima da uovo, la caseina, l’albumina d’uovo, i caseinati e l’ovoalbumina, i quali possono invece essere impiegati nelle produzioni “vegetariane” e nelle produzioni convenzionali.
Il termine “vino vegano” non è obbligatorio da inserire in etichetta, quindi qualora venisse trovato si tratterebbe di un’informazione facoltativa aggiunta dal produttore. Ciò nonostante, secondo il regolamento comunitario in materia di etichettatura (Reg. CE 1169/2011) è previsto che in futuro vengano definite norme per l’uso delle informazioni volontarie relative anche alle caratteristiche degli alimenti per essere definiti vegetariani o vegani, quindi un concetto che riflette anche prodotti che non siano vini. Per tale argomento va segnalata la Csqa-Certificazioni, ente focalizzata sulla certificazione dei vini “veg”, Qualità Vegetariana Vegan®, il marchio promosso dall’AVI (Associazione Vegetariana Italiana).
IL VINO VEGANO CONSIGLIATO:
VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO DOCG 2013 – VILLA SANT’ANNA (TOSCANA)
Perché rinunciare alla struttura e al corpo di uno splendido Vino Nobile di Montepulciano? Prodotto con una percentuale predominante di Sangiovese (85%), con la parte restante fatta da un blend di Merlot, Canaiolo, Mammolo e Colorino, questo pezzo da 90 della viticoltura toscana si presta ad un abbinamento versatile: dai pici con ragù di cinghiale al Peposo dell’Impruneta, passando per un bel pezzo di pecorino toscano semistagionato, il tutto con una filosofia produttiva del vino “vegan-friendly”.
VINI NATURALI
Qui scatta la nota più dolente, in particolare se ci rivolgiamo agli “scettici” delle categorie affrontate finora. Una corrente di pensiero (nella quale io mi rispecchio) non concorda molto col termine “naturale”, dato che un intervento artificiale è vitale affinché il vino possa essere prodotto partendo dall’uva. Ma inclinazioni filosofiche a parte, veniamo ai fatti. Innanzitutto viene escluso l’impiego della chimica di sintesi ed i vigneti devono essere ubicati in posizioni vocate, stimolando la crescita delle piante senza necessità di forzare la produttività, aiutando il terreno a mantenere viva la propria fertilità.
La vinificazione dovrebbe avvenire per fermentazione spontanea del mosto, senza addizione di lieviti selezionati, perciò in maniera simile ai vini biodinamici si usano lieviti indigeni. Qualunque sia l’operazione da effettuare, il principio comune è quello di evitare l’alterazione della natura del vino. Non esiste una regolamentazione sull’utilizzo dell’anidride solforosa, sebbene ci si possa riferire a chi è stato attribuita la nascita dei vini naturali, ovvero lo scienziato e vignaiolo francese del Beaujolais, Jules Chauvet. Negli Anni ‘70 si cominciò ad opporre al massiccio utilizzo di pesticidi e concimi chimici in agricoltura, così come alle tecniche di vinificazione basate su una modifica chimica e biologica del mosto mediante procedimenti industriali, creando de facto il movimento del vino naturale nel mondo. Da lì a poco si fondò l’Association des Vins Naturel, che stabilì un uso massimo di SO2, in misura inferiore a 30 mg/l per i vini rossi e 40 mg/l per i vini bianchi o mossi.
Non mancano tuttavia dei produttori con un approccio decisamente più radicale, quali coloro che aderiscono al protocollo SAINS: Sans Aucun Intrant Ni Sulfite. Zero additivi, zero solfiti.
Diciamo che esistono così tante controversie attorno al mondo dei vini naturali che diversi ristoranti ed e-commerce in giro per l’Italia si specializzano quasi esclusivamente nella vendita e nel servizio di questi vini. Ovviamente ed inequivocabilmente vige la sacra regola Degustibus: possono piacere e possono non piacere. L’importante è comunque sempre rispettare le opinioni altrui, sempre che le nostre vengano rispettate, sia chiaro! Il mio consiglio? Non lasciarsi “intimidire” dal termine: se un/a sommelier al ristorante vi propone un vino naturale in abbinamento, o se la vostra amica/o sommelier vi portano a casa una bottiglia del genere, fate come fareste per qualunque altra bottiglia che non avete mai assaggiato fino a quel momento: assaporatela, scopritela e solo alla fine giudicatela.
IL VINO NATURALE CONSIGLIATO:
“IL MIO MALVASIA” 2018 – CAMILLO DONATI (EMILIA ROMAGNA)
Mi ci sono ritrovato quasi per caso nel radar di questa deliziosa cantina emiliana. Ho assaggiato diversi prodotti e tutti mi hanno lasciato un ottimo ricordo, però cito questo dato che è il primo che ho provato dell’azienda: una Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, un’uva spesso utilizzata per la produzione di vini fermi e dolci, che in questo caso invece è secco e frizzante. Parliamo di un piacevolissimo vino che, per rimanere sull’abbinamento territoriale, potrebbe fare un’eccellente figura accompagnato dai tanti salumi emiliani, ma probabilmente con qualche anno di invecchiamento potrebbe essere “osato” anche per dei secondi di carne bianche più strutturati. Un abbinamento audace ma che vale la pena tentare? Con una pizza ai quattro formaggi!
Credo che sia comunque giusto completare questo articolo parlando brevemente di altri due marchi che, spesso, potremmo ritrovarci sulla bottiglia ma di cui magari non conosciamo la finalità.
FIVI
Come dice l’acronimo stesso, il marchio FIVI indica quei produttori appartenenti alla Federazione Italiana Vignaioli Indipendenti. Lo scopo è quello di “rappresentare la figura del viticoltore di fronte alle istituzioni, promuovendo la qualità e autenticità dei vini italiani”. I criteri da rispettare per far parte di questa associazione sono i seguenti (citati letteralmente dal testo sul sito web dell’ente):
- il vignaiolo che coltiva le sue vigne, imbottiglia il proprio vino, curando personalmente il proprio prodotto. Vende tutto o parte del suo raccolto in bottiglia, sotto la sua responsabilità, con il suo nome e la sua etichetta;
- il vignaiolo rinuncia all’acquisto dell’uva o del vino a fini commerciali. Comprerà uva soltanto per estreme esigenze di vinificazione, o nel caso di viticoltura di montagna per salvaguardare il proprio territorio agricolo, in conformità con le leggi in vigore;
- il vignaiolo rispetta le norme enologiche della professione, limitando l’uso di additivi inutili e costosi, concentrando la sua attenzione sulla produzione di uve sane che non hanno bisogno del maquillage di cantina.
TRIPLE A
Se leggete il marchio “Triple A” sulla bottiglia che state bevendo vuol dire che il vino è creato da quelle cantine composte da Agricoltori Artigiani Artisti. Lo scopo principale di questa associazione è di evitare a tutti i costi la standardizzazione delle pratiche vinicole ed enologiche, favorendo invece quel modus operandi che punta a favorire la valorizzazione del territorio, del vitigno e delle tecniche produttive locali. Riprendendo nuovamente le parole dal sito ufficiale, riporto qui sotto il decalogo dei vini della Triple A, ovvero quelli che nascono:
- da una selezione manuale delle future viti, per una vera selezione massale.
- da produttori agricoltori, che coltivano i vigneti senza utilizzare sostanze chimiche di sintesi rispettando la vite e i suoi cicli naturali.
- da uve raccolte a maturazione fisiologica e perfettamente sane.
- da mosti ai quali non venga aggiunta né anidride solforosa né altri additivi. L’anidride solforosa può essere aggiunta solo in minime quantità al momento dell’imbottigliamento.
- utilizzando solo lieviti indigeni ed escludendo i lieviti selezionati.
- senza interventi chimici o fisici prima e durante la fermentazione alcolica diversi dal semplice controllo delle temperature (sono tassativamente esclusi gli interventi di concentrazione attuati con qualsiasi metodo).
- maturando sulle proprie “fecce fini” fino all’imbottigliamento.
- non correggendo nessun parametro chimico.
- non chiarificando e filtrando prima dell’imbottigliamento.
- dalla migliore espressione del terroir al quale appartengono.
La mia speranza è che questo articolo sia stato scritto correttamente ma che soprattutto possa essere una piccola guida per coloro che, accerchiati da tutti questi termini, riescano a navigare con maggiore felicità nel complesso ma splendido mondo dei vini, senza mai dare pregiudizi prima di aver assaggiato.
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action in tһe Battle оff Samar.
Outgunned Ьy thee Japanese, USS Johnston led аn attack оf a handful of ligtships against a colossal
fleet սntil it ᴡas surrounded. RᎬLATED ARTICLES
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Αccording to thе US Navy: ‘One by one, Johnston toօk on Japanese destroyers, ɑlthough Johnston һad no torpedoes
аnd limited firepower. Aftｅr two-ɑnd-а-half hours, Johnston – dead іn the water – waѕ surrounded by enemy ships.’At 9.45 am,
Evans gaνｅ the ordeг to abandon ship.
Τwenty-fiνe minjtes ⅼater, the destroyer rolled ovｅr and bеgan to sink.’ Heг action in the battle wɑs central to tһе overarching Battle of Leyte Gulf, ｃonsidered to be the
largest naval battle іn history with mⲟre than 200,000
personnel. Ꭲhe USS Jonstoin ѡas sunk ߋn Octoober 25, 1944, after sһe waѕ outnumbered and outgunned
іn a brave advanhce agаinst the Imperial Japanese
Navy Movements ɗuring the Battle off Samar ᧐n Oｃtober 25,
1944, it iѕ cited as one of tһе greatеѕt lаst stands in naval historyThe Imperial Japanese Navy rallied neaｒly ɑll of its major naval vessels
in tһe fight, iin which tthe US and Australian forces intended to
invfade thhe islands in Southeast Asia tһrough ᴡhich
Japan derived industrial strength.Ꭲhe Allies were successful іn defeating thee Japanese warships Ԁespite kamikaze attacks raining ԁߋwn frоm the sky. It іs
often cited aas one оf the greatest last stands in military
history. Aϲcording tο Guinness Ꮤorld Records,
thhe deepest wreck bｅfore the USS Johnston wwas а German vessel discovered at 18,904ft.semar jitu77
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