L’ABC del sake: definizione, ingredienti e varietà
Quante volte, durante i nostri pasti presso i ristoranti giapponesi – ed anche cinesi – ci è capitato di trovare nel menù il termine sake? Secondo me molto spesso; sono anche abbastanza sicuro del fatto però che in molti non lo abbiano mai ordinato o che, ordinandolo, non sapessero che cosa stavano bevendo. Per esperienza personale so anche che nella maggior parte delle occasioni in cui tale bevanda “misteriosa” sia stata ordinata, i camerieri la abbiano portata calda e a fine pasto.
Proprio queste due ultime caratteristiche potrebbero portare molti a considerare il sake come un distillato da servire [caldo] esclusivamente a fine pasto: niente di più sbagliato… Fu proprio la primissima nozione che appresi nel novembre del 2018 quando frequentai il corso della Sake Sommelier Association Italiana per diventare sommelier del sake. Io mi iscrissi convinto che sarei andato a studiare un distillato, invece il sake è una bevanda fermentata, come lo sono il vino e la birra. Inoltre, spoiler alert, può essere servito a tutto pasto (dall’antipasto al dolce, passando per primi, secondi e contorni) a seconda della tipologia. Questo è sicuramente il primo luogo comune da sfatare in merito alla tipologia.
Adesso però sono necessarie diverse premesse per dare un quadro più completo circa questa bevanda eclettica e deliziosa. Innanzitutto parliamo di una bevanda che vede nel Giappone la sua patria di nascita e di valorizzazione, sebbene anche altri Paesi stiano adottando la produzione di sake – anche qui in Italia! In secondo luogo il nome più corretto da utilizzare sarebbe Nihonshu, una parola giapponese che rappresenta l’unione di Nihon (Giappone) e Shu (alcol), portando il suo significato letterale a “alcol giapponese”.
In Giappone viene prodotto in ognuna delle 47 prefetture dello stato, compresa la prefettura di Kagoshima dal 2012 – era l’ultima mancante nel parco produttivo giapponese a mancare dall’elenco. Tuttavia le più imponenti prefetture, in termini di volumi, sono quelle di Kyoto e Hyogo, mentre quella di Yamagata presenta ad oggi il maggior numero pro capite di sakagura (le cantine che producono il nihonshu).
Ma passiamo adesso alla composizione della bevanda. Da cosa è composto il sake, o per meglio dire, il nihonshu? Da quattro ingredienti: riso, acqua, koji e lieviti. Iniziamo dalla prima; se volessimo fare un’altra analogia col vino, il riso sta al nihonshu come l’uva sta al vino: è la sua materia prima principale. Si tratta di un alimento diffuso in quasi tutto il mondo, composto per il 75% circa da carboidrati – ed in particolare amido – ma contiene anche vitamine, minerali, lipidi e proteine. La tipologia più diffusa in Giappone è la Japonica, un po’ come il Carnaroli è una delle varietà italiane di riso più diffuse o come lo è il Basmati in Pakistan ed India. Inoltre la Japonica presenta a sua volta quasi 250 varietà diverse che possono essere catalogate in due macro categorie.
Una è quella che viene catalogata come “riso da tavola”, un altro termine simile al mondo vitivinicolo, mentre la seconda è la Sakamai, una varietà complessa da coltivare che rappresenta il massimo standard dal punto di vista qualitativo. Quest’ultima ha un chicco più grande (tra i 26 ed i 28 grammi contro i 20 circa di quello da tavola) e ha un maggiore assorbimento dell’acqua, risultando poco colloso, molto denso al suo interno e resistente al suo esterno, con un’alta concentrazione di amido ma con pochi grassi e proteine. A sua volta il Sakamai presenta altre varietà, tra le quali lo Yamadanishiki, il Miyamanishiki ed il Gohyakumangoku. Nota bene: a differenza del vino, dove la geografia dell’uva gioca un ruolo primario, per il sake la questione è diversa. Non è insolito per molte sakagura utilizzare del riso che proviene da aree anche molto distanti dalla propria. Anzi: in molti casi il produttore di sake non coltiva neanche riso, ma usufruire di quello di altri agricoltori.
Passiamo alla seconda materia prima fondamentale per la realizzazione del sake: il koji. Si tratta essenzialmente di una muffa o fungo filamentoso appartenente alla famiglia delle tricocomacee, che si nutre di riso e che successivamente produce gli enzimi che avviano la saccarificazione. Il suo ruolo è fondamentale; infatti l’amido è uno zucchero infermentescibile, pertanto è necessario prima che l’amido diventi zucchero che possa essere fermentato. È un fungo che può essere trovato nelle foglie delle piante di riso (e non solo). Di koji ne sono tre tipologie. La prima è il koji giallo (Aspergillus Oryzae), usato principalmente per la produzione di sake, capace di produrre enzimi alquanto resistenti che saccarificano gli amidi in zuccheri semplici e scindono le proteine. È molto sensibile alla temperatura ma, d’altro canto, origina prodotti con un sapore fruttato e rinfrescante, oltre che molto gustoso.
Il secondo tipo è quello nero (Aspergillus Awamori) ed è usato per creare l’Awamori, un distillato tipico di Okinawa. Tale koji produce molto acido citrico, oltre agli enzimi responsabili per la saccarificazione. Il terzo ed ultimo tipo è quello bianco (Aspergillus Kawachi), applicato per la produzione di Shochu, un altro distillato tipicamente diffuso nel sud del Giappone e prodotto, oltre che con riso, con patate dolci e orzo. Per gli amanti dell’etimologia, la parola Aspergillus prende il significato dall’aspersorio (ovvero lo strumento usato per diffondere l’acqua santa) utilizzato nelle messe del cattolicesimo – catalogato nel 1729 dal sacerdote [e biologo] italiano Pier Antonio Micheli.
Ora parliamo dell’acqua. Come per la birra, anche per la produzione di sake è un elemento fondamentale per la conseguente struttura organolettica del prodotto finale. È prassi comune per molte sakagura posizionarsi in aree del Giappone famose per le loro fonti di acqua pura – come lo sono per esempio le fonti di Gokousui (Prefettura di Kyoto), Fukuryusui (Prefettura di Shizuoka) e Miyamizu (Prefettura di Hyogo). A seconda dell’utilizzo di un’acqua più dura o più morbida, il sapore del nihonshu finale sarà molto diverso. Un’acqua dura che contiene una maggiore quantità di calcio e magnesio per esempio darà vita ad un sake ricco, strutturato e saporito, mentre al contrario sarà leggero e più pulito. Diciamo che, a livello di minerali, un’acqua ideale per la produzione di sake contiene potassio e magnesio, mentre al contrario non dovrebbe avere un’alta concentrazione di di ferro e manganese, dato che questi due minerali in particolare porterebbero ad una maggiore ossidazione e ad un sapore più “amarognolo”.
Infine passiamo ai lieviti. Quelli del Sake sono presenti nell’aria e possono essere considerati equivalenti ai lieviti del pane. Il lievito scelto è il Saccharomyces cerevisiae (un lievito molto conosciuto tra chi studia e degusta vini e birre), capace di fermentare a basse temperature e di raggiungere concentrazioni alcoliche superiori ai 20° di titolo alcolometrico, risultando in prodotti fruttati e fragranti. Perché i lieviti sono importanti? Per la loro funzione vitale di convertire lo zucchero in alcol.
A livello di ciclo produttivo, il tutto parte in tarda primavera (a maggio) quando si semina il riso, mentre tra settembre e ottobre si raccoglie. Va sottolineato che il riso necessita comunque di almeno un mese di riposo dopo la raccolta e dopo la levigatura (ci arriveremo tra poco). In seguito avviene l’inizio della produzione, un ciclo che si conclude nella primavera successiva, a marzo per l’appunto, quando il ciclo ricomincia.
Tuttavia è il momento, per adesso, di discutere dell’ultimo fattore in questione: la levigatura del riso. I sake infatti vengono classificati in diverse categorie, le quali sono definite in particolare dalla percentuale di levigatura del riso (seimai buai) e dall’eventuale aggiunta di alcol a fine fermentazione. Levigando il riso, si eliminano elementi indesiderati come grassi e proteine, garantendo una maggiore aromaticità e eleganza nel prodotto finale, a discapito però della libertà di movimento sulla temperatura: più è levigato il chicco, meno libertà si avrà. Il seimai buai, o percentuale di sbramatura, si calcola dividendo il peso del riso levigato per il peso dello stesso riso integrale, il tutto moltiplicato per 100 (in modo da ottenere la percentuale). Tale valore indica la percentuale di chicco rimasto; diciamo che ci sono 7 classificazioni in particolare da conoscere.
La prima da menzionare è il Futsu-shu (futsu sta per “normale”, mentre shu come menzionato precedentemente vuol dire “alcol”). È probabilmente la tipologia di nihonshu più prodotto e consumato in Giappone ed è un tipo di sake non conforme per qualche motivo alle regole del disciplinare delle altre categorie. Più di due terzi della produzione del sake giapponese si classifica come Futsushu, prodotto solitamente con una piccola aggiunta di alcol, che conferisce corpo e fragranza.
Passiamo poi alla categoria “Junmai”, che significa più o meno alcol proveniente da fermentazione naturale. Se non si trova sulla dicitura del sake, significa che stiamo bevendo un prodotto che non prevede l’aggiunta di alcol. Tale classe include tre varietà: la prima è anch’essa chiamata Junmai e non c’è una levigatura minima imposta per questa classe, anche se la maggior parte dei Junmai sono levigati intorno al 70%. Di solito i Junmai puntano di più sulla persistenza del gusto.
Su un gradino superiore troviamo i “Junmai Ginjo”, il cui riso utilizzato per la produzione deve essere levigato fino a un seimai buai del 60%, equivalente ad un 40% di chicco eliminato. La parola Ginjo sta ad indicare il bouquet di aromi che caratterizza questa classe pregiata di sake, solitamente con una impronta fruttata e floreale. Successivamente troviamo i “Junmai Daiginjo”, considerati i più pregiati e per i quali si seleziona solo il miglior riso – levigatura di almeno il 50% – in modo da ottenere soprattutto una pronunciata eleganza al palato, così come una spiccata aromaticità.
“Traslocando” ora alla categoria dei sake a cui viene aggiunto alcol, il primo tipo di varietà da elencare è l’Honjo-zo. Da un certo punto di vista possono essere visti come l’equivalente del Junmai ma con alcol aggiunto, hanno una levigatura minima [richiesta] del 70% e, grazie all’alcol, hanno un maggiore corpo ed una fragranza più imponente. Si tratta di una tipologia di sake che si presta ad essere servita anche scaldata, i sake di questa categoria si distinguono per il gusto tendente al robusto. Come equivalenti del Junmai Ginjo addizionati di alcol ci sono invece i Ginjo, i quali devono avere un seimai buai fino al 60%, mentre con una levigatura del 50% troviamo i Daiginjo.
Diciamo che per adesso ci fermiamo qui, ma non abbiamo neanche minimamente “levigato” tutto il mondo del sake… Questo articolo ha come scopo quello di informare sulle basi di questa pregiata e gustosissima bevanda, ma per studiarlo e comprenderlo meglio ci sono persone e associazioni molto più qualificate. A tal proposito vi rimando al sito della Sake Sommelier Association, che grazie a Lorenzo Ferraboschi è presente anche in Italia (dove per fortuna sono riuscito due anni fa a frequentare con successo il corso intensivo di 3 giorni per guadagnare il certificato di sommelier del sake).
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